There are 16 messages totalling 1401 lines in
this issue.
Topics of the day:
1. FORWARDLOOK
Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes (2)
2. good news.
3.
<No subject given> (3)
4. brake drum puller
5. '56 Plymouth Brakes (2)
6. 56 Plymouth door lock cylinder
and keys
7. 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN # (4)
8.
Spark Plug Holders ?
(2)
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Date:
Thu, 4 Feb 2010 23:48:02 -0800
From: Richard
Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
Subject:
FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These daily digests come
to me in very difficult to read format with a lot
of garbage
text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would
get me
cleaner text & messages?
Regarding the Plymouth
brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler 300
was that
I had to buy a special hell-for-stout drum puller for the
rear
drums. See Item 9 at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html
It works
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded
loosely to the axle end as
the drum can come off the tapered axle
like a cannonball when it lets loose.
I had the shoes relined at a
Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
over them, even in the
minimal position. I returned the shoes and the drums
to them
and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums.
Next
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time.
I had my mechanic
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum
machine so as to preserve as
much iron in the drums as possible and
that worked fine. It always seems
that it would be best to
machine all the grooves and scratches out of the
drum ID's, but
these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pass
to
knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just
fine. The
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the
shoes based on some
measurements they took. It was not a wear
issue, more like a warpage issue.
I got their last two brake shoe
cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that
Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums.
There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel
before threading in the lug bolts. That's what the
little
holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's
side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency
of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded
fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler
began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?)
and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich
Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot
better than it
stops)
*************************************************************
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Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 05:42:14 -0800
From: David
Remaley <
david.remaley@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
good news.
--0-845740641-1265377334=:93354
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First off, I want to thank everyone on here
for all of their help with me f=
ind where to get my brake shoes
for me 1956 Belvedere.=A0 I wanted to post =
on here that after a
two years of waiting, I am finally putting on my new t=
ires and
other things on my pride and joy.=A0 It has been a long time
comin=
g.=A0 I have had it safely kept stored in my garage and it
has been driving=
me crazy not being able to have her out on the
road.=A0 Well, this year sh=
e will be making her debut in the
local car shows.=A0 My car is a work in p=
rogress but I have no
problem with that.=A0 I will be keeping you all updat=
ed with my
progress and will be posting pictures as soon as I get them
take=
n.=0A=0ADave=0A1956 Plymouth=A0Belvedere.=0APa=0A=0A=0A
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<html><head><style
type=3D"text/css"><!-- DIV {margin:0px;}
--></style></he=
ad><body><div
style=3D"font-family:times new roman, new york, times,
serif;=
font-size:12pt"><DIV>First off, I want to thank
everyone on here for all of=
their help with me find where to get
my brake shoes for me 1956 Belvedere.=
I wanted to post
on here that after a two years of waiting, I am fin=
ally putting
on my new tires and other things on my pride and joy.
It=
has been a long time coming. I have had it safely
kept stored in my =
garage and it has been driving me crazy not
being able to have her out on t=
he road. Well, this year
she will be making her debut in the local ca=
r shows. My
car is a work in progress but I have no problem with
that=
. I will be keeping you all updated with my
progress and will be post=
ing pictures as soon as I get them
taken.</DIV>=0A<DIV> </DIV>=0A<DIV>=
Dave</DIV>=0A<DIV>1956
Plymouth Belvedere.</DIV>=0A<DIV>Pa</DIV><!--
c=
g10.c2.mail.ac4.yahoo.com compressed/chunked Fri Jan 22 13:25:56
PST 2010 -=
-></div><br>=0A=0A
</body></html>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:23:44 -0500
From: C B
Rollins <
canartgrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
<No subject given>
http://mircalefs.webs.com?2o2vii8
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Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:23:52 -0500
From: C B
Rollins <
canartgrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
<No subject given>
http://mircalefs.webs.com?2o2vii8
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Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 07:20:33 -0800
From: Jan &
Roger van Hoy <
vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
brake drum puller
Those brake drum pullers are fantastic!
Have had one for years, last time
used was a couple years ago in a
wrecking yard on a '55 Plymouth. The yard
guy insisted on
doing the work, he too was amazed at how easily it pops the
drum
off the tapered axle.
I can vouch for the idea that right-hand
nuts on the left side do work
loose. Had it happen when
towing a '47 Cadillac back in '73. The lug nuts
were sitting
along the road at about 20' apart, the tire and wheel bounced
considerably further.
--Roger van Hoy
-----
Original Message -----
From: "Richard Barber" <
C300@xxxxxxx>
To: <
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:
Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] FORWARDLOOK
Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
> These daily digests come to
me in very difficult to read format with a lot
> of garbage
text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would
get
> me
> cleaner text & messages?
>
>
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55
Chrysler
> 300
> was that I had to buy a special
hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
> drums. See Item
9 at:
>
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html
It works
> great. Remember to leave the axle nut
threaded loosely to the axle end
> as
> the drum can come
off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets
>
loose.
> I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the
drums would not fit
> over them, even in the minimal
position. I returned the shoes and the
> drums
> to
them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums.
> Next
> time, I'll remember to take the drums in the
first time. I had my
> mechanic
> give a light
cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
>
much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It
always seems
> that it would be best to machine all the grooves
and scratches out of the
> drum ID's, but these drums are
getting kind of hard to find and a light
> pass
> to
knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine.
> The
> reline shop also refused to reline a couple of
the shoes based on some
> measurements they took. It was
not a wear issue, more like a warpage
> issue.
> I got
their last two brake shoe cores.
>
> Historical
note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts
that
> threaded into the brake drums. There are locating
pins on each axle
> flange
> to help align the wheel
before threading in the lug bolts. That's what
>
the
> little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are
for. The driver's side
> lugs were left-hand thread-
apparently to reduce the tendency of the
> spinning and
vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never
> did
> buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began
pressing the lug bolts into the
> brake
> drums (axle
flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the
drum.
>
> Rich Barber
> Brentwood, CA
> 1955
Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it
stops)
>
>
>
*************************************************************
>
>
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>
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Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 17:33:03 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject:
Re: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth
Brakes
------=_Part_5905_1556643729.1265391183330
Content-Type:
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7bit
----- Original Message -----
Historical note:
1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded
into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's
what the
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for.
The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce
the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the
threaded fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler
began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?)
and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better
than it stops)
*************************************************************
This may have been true with "Chrysler" badged cars, but I
have owned more than one 58 Plymouth with lug bolt drums.
Not
sure when the practice was finally given up, but 58 is the last year I
have had experience with.
B.
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<html><head><style
type=3D'text/css'>p { margin: 0;
}</style></head><body><=
div
style=3D'font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color:
#000000'><br>-----=
Original Message
-----<br><br>Historical note: 1955 was the last
yea=
r that Chrysler used lug bolts that<br>threaded into the
brake drums.  =
;There are locating pins on each axle
flange<br>to help align the wheel bef=
ore threading in the
lug bolts. That's what the<br>little holes
betwe=
en the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's
side<br>lugs were =
left-hand thread- apparently to reduce
the tendency of the<br>spinning and =
vibrating wheel to
loosen the threaded fasteners. I never did<br>buy
=
that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug
bolts into the bra=
ke<br>drums (axle flanges?) and using lug
nuts to hold the wheel to the dru=
m.<br><br>Rich
Barber<br>Brentwood, CA<br>1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a
heck =
of a lot better than it
stops)<br> <br><br>***************************=
**********************************<br><br>
This may have been true wi=
th "Chrysler" badged cars, but I have
owned more than one 58 Plymouth with =
lug bolt drums.
<br><br>Not sure when the practice was finally given
=
up, but 58 is the last year I have had experience
with.<br><br>
B.<br=
></div></body></html>
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------=_Part_5905_1556643729.1265391183330--
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:49:45 -0800
From: Richard
Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
Subject: '56
Plymouth Brakes
I'm advised that Plymouths as late as 1959
still had lug bolts and that it
was not unknown for RH thread lug
nuts and bolts on the driver's side to
come undone. I worked
on a lot of cars in the '50's and don't recall ever
encountering
any loose fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've
slept
since then.
Rich Barber
Brentwood,
CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Barber
[mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday,
February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion
List'
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These
daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a
lot
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some
options that would get me
cleaner text &
messages?
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My
experience with my '55 Chrysler 300
was that I had to buy a special
hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
drums. See Item 9
at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html
It works
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded
loosely to the axle end as
the drum can come off the tapered axle
like a cannonball when it lets loose.
I had the shoes relined at a
Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
over them, even in the
minimal position. I returned the shoes and the drums
to them
and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums.
Next
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time.
I had my mechanic
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum
machine so as to preserve as
much iron in the drums as possible and
that worked fine. It always seems
that it would be best to
machine all the grooves and scratches out of the
drum ID's, but
these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pass
to
knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just
fine. The
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the
shoes based on some
measurements they took. It was not a wear
issue, more like a warpage issue.
I got their last two brake shoe
cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that
Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums.
There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel
before threading in the lug bolts. That's what the
little
holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's
side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency
of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded
fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler
began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?)
and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich
Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot
better than it
stops)
*************************************************************
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Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:02:16 -0800
From: Allen
Faltus <
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
56 Plymouth door lock cylinder and keys
This is a multi-part
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Does anyone out there have a set, both front
doors, of door lock =
cylinder and keys for a 56 Plymouth.
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxxAllen
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2
face=3DArial>Does anyone out there have a set, both =
front
doors,=20
of door lock cylinder and keys for a 56
Plymouth. <A=20
href="" title=http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx">afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx">
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx</A></FONT></DIV>
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size=3D2
face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2
face=3DArial>Allen</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:19:47 -0800
From: Brian
Shaputis <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN
#
--0-12929987-1265401187=:59400
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Can someone help me with this one
please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto
Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to this
one... Thanks in advance!
Brian
Rochester,
WA
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--></style></head><body><div
style="font-family:bookman old style,new
york,times,serif;font-size:14pt;color:#000000;"><div>Can
someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN
located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin
heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in
advance!<br><br>Brian<br>Rochester,
WA<br></div>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:42:22 -0800
From: RICHARD
HALL <
rahall01@xxxxxxxx>
Subject:
<No subject
given>
--0-1601006658-1265402542=:68238
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Hi group,
=A0
Does anyone repro the
rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into =
on each side
of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ?=A0
Thanks..
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<table cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"
border=3D"0" ><tr><td valign=3D"=
top" style=3D"font:
inherit;"><DIV>Hi
group,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Does
anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit
=
into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ?
Thanks..</DIV></td=
></tr></table>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 16:56:52 -0500
From: William
Huff <
whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
Re: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN
#
--=====================_63524656==.ALT
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Driver's door
jamb?
Bill Huff
At 2/5/201003:19 PM, Brian Shaputis
wrote:
>Can someone help me with this one please...? Where
is the VIN
>located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know
one of you fin heads
>know the answer to this one...
Thanks in advance!
>
>Brian
>Rochester,
WA
>
>*************************************************************
>
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Driver's
door jamb?<br><br>
Bill
Huff<br><br>
<br>
At 2/5/201003:19 PM, Brian
Shaputis wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite
cite="">Can someone help me with this
one please...?
Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto
Fireflite. I
know one of you fin heads know the answer to this
one...
Thanks in
advance!<br><br>
Brian<br>
Rochester,
WA<br><br>
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--=====================_63524656==.ALT--
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 16:56:42 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: '56
Plymouth
Brakes
----------MB_8CC74C53CAADF7E_63C8_5974_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
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plymouths got their studs in 60, still
maintained the left/right thread=
feature- the purpose of the
opposing thread were to make loosening by cen=
tripital force
inveitable- the fwd rotation of the wheel would "tighten"=
the
lugnut or bolt in operation, by properties of physics. and since
noo=
ne has really lost a wheel on one side of the car- moreso that
the other=
now that most cars all use right-hand threaded
lugnuts/studs [foreign] th=
e theory of accidently putting left on
right an d right on left hubs, gets=
blown out of the
water.
=20
all, not some, plymouths had lug bolts to the end
of 1959, exc for those=
perhaps with upgraded brakes someone
swapped off the mid-sized didge chas=
sis [all 57-9 dodges,
firesweeps, windsors 122"
wb]
=20
=20
-----Original
Message-----
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 9:49 am
Subject: [FWDLK] '56 Plymouth
Brakes
I'm advised that Plymouths as late as 1959 still had
lug bolts and that it
was not unknown for RH thread lug nuts and
bolts on the driver's side to
come undone. I worked on a lot
of cars in the '50's and don't recall ever
encountering any loose
fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've slept
since
then.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
=20
-----Original
Message-----
From: Richard Barber [mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: Thursday,
February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion
List'
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These
daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a
lot
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some
options that would get=
me
cleaner text &
messages?
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My
experience with my '55 Chrysler 30=
0
was that I had to buy a
special hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
drums. See
Item 9 at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html It
works
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded
loosely to the axle end=
as
the drum can come off the tapered
axle like a cannonball when it lets loos=
e.
I had the shoes
relined at a Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
over
them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the
dru=
ms
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's
of the drums. Nex=
t
time, I'll remember to take the drums
in the first time. I had my mechani=
c
give a light
cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
much
iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always
seems
that it would be best to machine all the grooves and
scratches out of the
drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of
hard to find and a light pa=
ss
to knock down the high spots and
restore roundness may work just fine. Th=
e
reline shop
also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on
some
measurements they took. It was not a wear issue, more
like a warpage issu=
e.
I got their last two brake shoe
cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that
Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums.
There are locating pins on each axle flang=
e
to help align the
wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what
th=
e
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are
for. The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently
to reduce the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to
loosen the threaded fasteners. I never di=
d
buy that
one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the
bra=
ke
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the
wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955
Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it
stops)
=20
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Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="us-ascii"
<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2'
face=3D'arial'>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font
face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">plymout=
hs got their
studs in 60, still maintained the left/right thread feature-=
the
purpose of the opposing thread were to make loosening by
centripital=
force inveitable- the fwd rotation of the wheel would
"tighten" the lugnu=
t or bolt in operation, by properties of
physics. and since noone ha=
s really lost a wheel on one
side of the car- moreso that the other now th=
at most cars all use
right-hand threaded lugnuts/studs [foreign] the theor=
y of
accidently putting left on right an d right on left hubs, gets
blown=
out of the
water.</font></font><br>
</div>
<div>
<font size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica,
sans-serif"><br>
all, not some, plymouths had lug bolts to
the end of 1959, exc for those=
perhaps with upgraded brakes
someone swapped off the mid-sized didge chas=
sis [all 57-9 dodges,
firesweeps, windsors 122"
wb]<br>
</font></font></div>
<div
style=3D"clear: both;"></div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:
arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx><br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 9:49 am<br>
Subject: [FWDLK] '56 Plymouth
Brakes<br>
<br>
<div
id=3D"AOLMsgPart_0_79d7fd05-4bf5-46b9-b5ce-cca4c060bad9"
style=3D"mar=
gin: 0px; font-family:
Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px;=
color: rgb(0, 0,
0); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<pre
style=3D"font-size: 9pt;"><tt>I'm advised that Plymouths as
late as=
1959 still had lug bolts and that it<br>
was not
unknown for RH thread lug nuts and bolts on the driver's side
to<b=
r>
come undone. I worked on a lot of cars in
the '50's and don't recall ever=
<br>
encountering any
loose fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've
slept=
<br>
since then.<br>
<br>
Rich
Barber<br>
Brentwood,
CA<br>
<br>
-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Richard Barber [<a
href="" title=http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=C300@xxxxxxx href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=C300@xxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:C300@xxxxxxx">C300@xxxxxxx?">mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx=
</a>]
<br>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48
PM<br>
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion
List'<br>
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth
Brakes<br>
<br>
These daily digests come to me in
very difficult to read format with a lot=
<br>
of garbage
text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would
get=
me<br>
cleaner text &
messages?<br>
<br>
Regarding the Plymouth brake
shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler
30=
0<br>
was that I had to buy a special hell-for-stout
drum puller for the rear<br=
>
drums. See Item 9
at:<br>
<a href="" title=http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html href="http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html" target=_blank>http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html"
targ=
et=3D"_blank">
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html</a=
> It
works<br>
great. Remember to leave the axle nut
threaded loosely to the axle end=
as<br>
the drum can come
off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets
loos=
e.<br>
I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop,
but the drums would not fit<=
br>
over them, even in the
minimal position. I returned the shoes and the
dru=
ms<br>
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit
the ID's of the drums. Nex=
t<br>
time, I'll
remember to take the drums in the first time. I had my
mechani=
c<br>
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum
machine so as to preserve as<b=
r>
much iron in the drums
as possible and that worked fine. It always
seems<=
br>
that it would be best to machine all the
grooves and scratches out of the<=
br>
drum ID's, but
these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light
pa=
ss<br>
to knock down the high spots and restore
roundness may work just fine. Th=
e<br>
reline shop
also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on
some<br>
measurements they took. It was not a wear
issue, more like a warpage issu=
e.<br>
I got their last
two brake shoe cores.<br>
<br>
Historical
note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts
that=
<br>
threaded into the brake drums. There are
locating pins on each axle flang=
e<br>
to help align the
wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what
th=
e<br>
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes
are for. The driver's side=
<br>
lugs were left-hand
thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the<br>
spinning
and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never
di=
d<br>
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began
pressing the lug bolts into the bra=
ke<br>
drums (axle
flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the
drum.<br=
>
<br>
Rich
Barber<br>
Brentwood, CA<br>
1955 Chrysler C-300
(Goes a heck of a lot better than it
stops)<br>
<br>
<br>
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</tt></pre>
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----------MB_8CC74C53CAADF7E_63C8_5974_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com--
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:15:32 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject:
Re: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN
#
------=_Part_13915_346294826.1265411732822
Content-Type:
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Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges ?
Or am I just thinking 58 ???
B.
-----
Original Message -----
From: "Brian Shaputis" <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
Pacific
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is
the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin
heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!
Brian
Rochester, WA
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<html><head><style type='text/css'>p {
margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div
style='font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color:
#000000'> Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the
hinges ?<br><br> Or am I just thinking 58
???<br><br>
B.<br><br><br>----- Original Message
-----<br>From: "Brian Shaputis" <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx><br>To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Sent:
Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
Pacific<br>Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN
#<br><br><style><!-- DIV {margin:0px;}
--></style><div style="font-family: bookman old style,new
york,times,serif; font-size: 14pt; color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><div>Can someone help me with this one
please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto
Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to
this one... Thanks in
advance!<br><br>Brian<br>Rochester,
WA<br></div>
<!-- cg7.c4.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
compressed/chunked Fri Jan 22 12:38:51 PST 2010
-->
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------=_Part_13915_346294826.1265411732822--
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:21:22 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject:
Spark Plug Holders
?
------=_Part_14026_2089560067.1265412082941
Content-Type:
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----- Original Message -----
Hi group,
Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug
wires fit into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..
*************************************
Are you
referring to the pressed steel guides with the dipped rubber coating
at the separations, or the free floating plastic separators ?
The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets
(they might still?) The steel dudes often times lose the rubber
coating, but this can
easily be replicated with the insulating
"tool dip" for plier handles, etc.
Or are you thinking of
something completely different ?
B.
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<html><head><style type='text/css'>p {
margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div
style='font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color:
#000000'><br>----- Original Message
-----<br><br><table border="0" cellpadding="0"
cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td style="font-family:
inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight:
inherit; font-size: inherit; line-height: inherit; font-size-adjust:
inherit; font-stretch: inherit; -x-system-font: none;"
valign="top"><div>Hi
group,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Does
anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into
on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ?
Thanks..<br><br>
*************************************<br><br>
Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the
dipped rubber coating at the separations, or the free floating plastic
separators ?<br><br> The latter are aftermarket
and used to come with wire sets (they might still?) The
steel dudes often times lose the rubber coating, but this
can<br>easily be replicated with the insulating "tool dip" for
plier handles, etc.<br><br> Or are you thinking
of something completely different ?<br><br>
B.<br><br><br></div></td></tr></tbody></table>
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face="Arial"
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------=_Part_14026_2089560067.1265412082941--
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 21:22:42 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: 1960
Desoto Fireflite VIN
#
----------MB_8CC74EA652F2493_63C8_CE14_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
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=20
it should be in the door
jamb- its basically a newport body- converted to=
a desoto... my 61
newport convt has it in the jamb, so did a 60 saratoga=
and 62
custom880 convt i had.... i have seen [over the past, almost
100=
fwdlk bodies i've had] some literally fall off- the 2 tack
welds attachin=
g the plates had to burn through the orig layer of
paint- the thin layer=
of rust the facilitates between the layers
of metal [mild>stainless] pops=
the tacks... happens on 55-57
GMs too...
=20
=20
-----Original
Message-----
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxTo:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:15 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite
VIN #
Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the
hinges ?
Or am I just thinking 58 ???
B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Shaputis"
<
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent:
Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
Pacific
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
Can
someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN
located at=
on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin
heads know the answer=
to this one... Thanks in
advance!
Brian
Rochester, WA
=20
*************************************************************
To
unsubscribe or set your subscription options,please go to=20
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1=20*************************************************************
To
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2'
face=3D'arial'>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div> <font
size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">it
shou=
ld be in the door jamb- its basically a newport body-
converted to a desot=
o... my 61 newport convt has it in the jamb,
so did a 60 saratoga and 62=
custom880 convt i had.... i
have seen [over the past, almost 100 fw=
dlk bodies i've had] some
literally fall off- the 2 tack welds attaching=
the plates had to
burn through the orig layer of paint- the thin layer of=
rust the
facilitates between the layers of metal [mild>stainless]
pops=
the tacks... happens on 55-57 GMs
too...</font></font><br>
</div>
<div
style=3D"clear: both;"></div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:
arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx<br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:15 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto
Fireflite VIN
#<br>
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Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">&=
nbsp; Isn't
it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges
?<br>
<br>
Or am I just thinking 58
???<br>
<br>
B.<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message
-----<br>
From: "Brian Shaputis" <<a
href="" title=http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx">brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx">bri=
an_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx</a>><br>
To:
<a href="" title=http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxx=
.EDU</a><br>
Sent:
Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
Pacific<br=
>
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN
#<br>
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<div style=3D"font-family: bookman old
style,new york,times,serif; font-si=
ze: 14pt; color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">
<div>Can someone help me with this one
please...? Where is the VIN=
located at on a 1960 Desoto
Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads=
know the answer
to this one... Thanks in
advance!<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
Rochester,
WA<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
=20
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Feb 2010 21:28:22 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: Spark
Plug Holders
?
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there werent actual plastic retainers
like newer cars have [60s up] but-=
as mentioned already the rubber
dipped metal retainers- attached by means=
like center valve cover
bolts of poly blocks, and head tappings/v-cvr rai=
l bolts on big
blocks and hemis
WHAT I DID FOR A 57 FURY WAS USE THE TOOL DIP
[eastwood sells it- and othe=
r suppliers] AND DIP THE ENDS OF THE
WIRE LOOMS TO REPLICATE THE ORIGINAL=
PROTECTIVE
LAYER
another trick if you want to be slick and use modern or
better gauge ign=
wires- CAREFULLY [and firmly] hold the looms
against a piece of wood and=
- with a drill press- make the wire
openings larger- for 8mm wires- then=
dip them, the upgrade will be
less notable- just remember a red boot on=
#1 position dist cap
boot=20
=20
=20
=20
-----Original
Message-----
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxTo:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:21 pm
Subject: [FWDLK] Spark Plug Holders
?
----- Original Message -----
Hi
group,
=20
Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the
spark plug wires fit into=
on each side of the engine on a 1961
DeSoto ? Thanks..
*************************************
Are you referring
to the pressed steel guides with the dipped rubber co=
ating
at the separations, or the free floating plastic separators
?
The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire
sets (they might=
still?) The steel dudes often times lose
the rubber coating, but this ca=
n
easily be replicated with the
insulating "tool dip" for plier handles, etc=
.
Or
are you thinking of something completely different ?
B.
*************************************************************
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2'
face=3D'arial'>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font
face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">there=
werent actual
plastic retainers like newer cars have [60s up] but- as men=
tioned
already the rubber dipped metal retainers- attached by means
like=
center valve cover bolts of poly blocks, and head
tappings/v-cvr rail bol=
ts on big blocks and
hemis<br>
<br>
WHAT I DID FOR A 57 FURY WAS USE THE
TOOL DIP [eastwood sells it- and othe=
r suppliers] AND DIP THE
ENDS OF THE WIRE LOOMS TO REPLICATE THE ORIGINAL=
PROTECTIVE
LAYER<br>
<br>
another trick if you want to be slick
and use modern or better gauge ign=
wires- CAREFULLY [and firmly]
hold the looms against a piece of wood and=
- with a drill press-
make the wire openings larger- for 8mm wires- then=
dip them, the
upgrade will be less notable- just remember a red boot on=
#1
position dist cap boot
<br>
</font></font></div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:
both;"></div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:
arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx<br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent:
Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:21 pm<br>
Subject: [FWDLK] Spark Plug
Holders ?<br>
<br>
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<div style=3D"font-family:
Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><=
br>
----- Original Message
-----<br>
<br>
<table border=3D"0"
cellpadding=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td
sty=
le=3D"font: inherit;" valign=3D"top">
<div>Hi
group,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Does
anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires
fit=
into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ?
Thanks..<br>
<br>
*************************************<br>
<br>
Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the
dipped=
rubber coating at the separations, or the free floating
plastic separator=
s ?<br>
<br>
The
latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets (they
mi=
ght still?) The steel dudes often times lose the
rubber coating, but=
this can<br>
easily be replicated
with the insulating "tool dip" for plier handles,
etc=
.<br>
<br>
Or are you thinking of
something completely different ?<br>
<br>
B.<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
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