And mon cheri, anti-freeze was installed to prevent freezing, not
over-heating.
Neil Vedder
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--- Begin Message ---
- From: Jan & Roger van Hoy <vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 20:30:00 -0700
Your manual probably also says to use 30 weight oil or maybe the "new"
10W-30 and to lube the chassis every 1,000 miles. It probably also says to
only have your car serviced by your certified Dodge serviceMAN. [No women
allowed.] And your Dodge probably requires 7.50 or 7.75 x 14 tires, bias
ply of course.
The point is that times change and how to care for cars changes along with
it.
You're welcome to use alcohol anti-freeze if you want and you can find it;
heck, use Everclear if you want.
You did answer your own question, Neil, glycol-based anti-freeze was used
year-round even back then. It was required in A/C cars, but useable in any.
And ethylene glycol raises the boiling point as well as lowering the
freezing point.
--Roger van Hoy, Washougal, WA, '55 DeSoto, '58 DeSoto, '56 Plymouth, '66
Plymouth, '41 Dodge
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eastern Sierra Adjustment Svc" <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Living with modern anti-freeze products
FWIW, the factory stated that ONLY clean distilled-type plain water needed
to be installed
in our cars, and that "Anti-Freeze" was to be used, seasonally, when the
weather got below-
freezing, and, to protect an air-conditioned car from having its
cooling-water FREEZE up,
in the winter time.
I went 'around' with several people, a couple years ago, and, I (really-)
just
happen to have the 57 Dodge Service manual in my lap, so, if I might
quote, therefrom
(assuming that clean water is as clean, now, as it was, in 1957) :
" Only clean, soft water filled to 1 1/4" (approximately) below the bottom
of the filler neck,
should be used in the radiator and the cooling system of the engine. Hard
water will form a scale, not
only in the radiator core, but in the engine block and head as well."
...later, In boldface : "Every time the cooling system is drained and
refilled with water, a recommended
rust inhibitor (available thru the Parts Department) must be added."
Then: " Anti-freeze is recommended for use in the cooling system when the
temperature is likely
to be below 32 degrees F. Other anti-freeze solutions that are serviceable
are denatured alcohol,
methanol (synthetic wood alcohol) and ethylene glycol, when suitable
inhibitors are added.
Cars equipped with air conditioning must use a glycol-base permanent type
anti-freeze in the cooling system
throughout the entire year...this precaution is necessary inasmuch as the
air conditioner evaporator
lies in close proximity to the heater core, which may cause coolant in
heater core TO FREEZE
[my emphasis] if system is not protected."
BTW, if the radiator top tank is not over-filled, to begin with (the water
level should be just
above the top of the internal cooling core) and, if the radiator cap
(14psi recommended) is
operating properly, that "over-flow" tube, along the top of the radiator,
will ONLY have
to expell excess AIR PRESSURE from the cooling system, and no coolant will
have been lost.
At least, that's precisely what the SERVICE MANUAL has to say on the
subject of water, and
coolant, and radiator caps.
Neil Vedder--who uses a 50/50 mixture of water/anti-freeze in his car,
year around.
Paul Holmgren wrote:
Ok, after this subject has been beat to death several times, and after a
lot of
reading, both reports, and manufacturing claims, and taking into account
direct
experiences, I think I have figured out the main thing we need to so for
our
vintage cars surviving this sort of modern automotive chemistry.
OVERFLOW tanks, of any sort that allows an overflow radiator cap AND
fluid
maintained in the tank. THE reason seems to be that NO air is to be in
the
cooling system at all. I think all current formulations being sold today
are of
this nature. The only way to do this is to purge as much air out of the
cooling
system and to maintain the same mix in the overflow tank. As the final
bit of
air gets purged by the normal operation of the system then the fluid that
is
used will not break down as fast in the cooling system. The particulates
that
settle out and develop the crud that blocks the heater core and other
small
passages then does not happen (normally), sometimes as fast as 6 - 12
months.
This short time span breakdown I have personally seen and experienced in
systems
comparable to the 55 - 65 cooling system designs.
I think the first signs of the breakdown can be seen in the overflow
tanks as a
film of buildup of the particulates as they settle out of the fluids
exposed to
air in the overflow tank.
All one should have to do for the 2 or so years between changes is to
make sure
that the overflow container never runs dry during the periods that you
operate
your car.
I personally will still adhere to the 2 year change out cycle, regardless
of the
vintage automobile. We have seen the desirability of doing this even with
modern
cars.
AND above all else, Do Not Mix Types of coolant in the same system.
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