I had a
383 in my 65 Dodge. When the engine suddenly began overheating when
driving (it
was fine at idle), I replaced the water pump. The original (as I
received it)
water pump had a plastic impeller on a splined shaft. Most of the
plastic
splines were stripped, except at one end. The good end would grip at
idle, but
slip back and slip at driving rpms. I checked the new replacement pump,
which
had a metal impeller pressed on the shaft, but I could turn it with a
little
pressure, maybe 10 ft lbs. So I returned it for another new pump.
Dave
Homstad
56 Dodge
D500
-----Original
Message-----
From: Forward Look
Mopar
Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of William Huff
Sent: Friday, June 20,
2008 8:07
PM
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK]
overheating
413. any suggestions?
Hi Mel,
I have read about this controversy before, the opinion of engine
builders seems
to be that changing the cylinder wall thickness by .030" per side will
not
make an engine overheat. As far as my research has shown, thin
cylinder
walls can affect ring seal under load, and of course, too thin can lead
to
failure. It is hard to follow the logic that too thin can cause less
heat
transfer to the surrounding water.
I have experienced engines with clogs in the water jacket. These were
auto engines used in boats (Mercruiser) many years ago. Sealing the
engine block and putting a dilute muriatic acid solution in the water
jackets
for a few hours seemed to leave them in good shape, all corrosion was
gone but
the base metal was unaffected.
Also, why do you believe that 200 degrees is overheating? A
pressurized
radiator system is made to be capable of over 212 degrees, and I
believe they
do run in that neighborhood, no matter what thermostat you put in.
Where
you measure the temperature may be a key factor as well, is the sender
in the
stock location? Some threaded holes may be hotter than others.
Another question is, when does the temperature climb? Running on the
freeway or stuck in traffic or is the same all the time?
One thing that you can do is remove the radiator cap (cold) and run the
engine. Make sure that the water level goes down when the engine is
revved slightly and that the water is circulating after the thermostat
is
open. I assume you put a new water pump in, but I have had two RB
engines
that had the impeller slide backwards on the shaft and grind the blades
shorter. Temperatures went up then.
Regards,
Bill Huff
I recently bored a 413 .030 and
am having
trouble with it overheading.. Im on my 4rth radiator and 3rd
fan. No matter what I do, idle or down the road, Im running
205-215degrees. Used a mechanical gauge, mark 8 fan, 3 water pumps,
2 copper and 3 allum new radiators, Im at wits end.. any ideas from
past
experience? Im starting to wonder if the .060 was too much… any
comments?
mel
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