Re: [FWDLK] Brake conversion.

[Andy In Friendswood <spiritrt224@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,

I have a couple questions about this conversion. This is more or less 
what I did with my Windsor, but I had a couple difficulties you didn't 
mention.

First of all, I had to remove the anti-sway bar to make the spindles 
fit. Second, I had to remove the calipers to bleed them because the 
angle makes the bleed hole too low; air remains trapped in the caliper 
unless you remove the caliper and tilt it so the bottom of the bleed 
screw's hole is at the top.

Did you find a work-around for either of these problems?

Since I have the Polyhead, I don't have the clearance problems ya'll 
are mentioning.

Thanks,

Andy in Friendswood
'58 Windsor 4hdtp
http://www.houstonmopars.org/pos58.html
============================
-----Original Message-----
From: Fury Jim <JRawa@xxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 7:22 am
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Brake conversion.



the pattern for the 4-bolt master starts in 56 [definitely 56 plym at 
least] and continues up until 78, in 79 chrysler started using the 
2-bolt master [aspen/volare, cordoba/mirada/magnum]

 

the difference between the lowboy and regular drum-issue masters and a 
disc-brake master is the residual pressure check valve- a drum master 
has the valve to retain apply pressure in the system, a disc master 
does not as a full pressure retraction is necessary to release the 
caliper, using a drum master with discs prematurely wears the pads and 
creates excess heat- its not enough pressure to cause a notable drag, 
but you will see reduced pad life/efficiency.

 

the sure-working conversion i [and several others] use is the factory 
disc setup found on the aspen/volare, mirada/cord/magnum, and the 80s 
rwd fifth ave/diplomats.  the spindels have the same balljoint 
configuration/taper, the C to C is 1-1/8 shorter, requiring a camber 
adjustment, the only minor mods to make are a shortening of the strut 
rod end to adjust lock-to-lock, and a notch in the snubber perch to 
clear the caliper on full lock turning.

 

as for master cyl, the clearance is a little tight, but i use the 74-77 
D100 master cylinder religiously on my 57-9 cars [and a few newer over 
the years like my 62 dodge convt]  and- if you're using aaj brakes, you 
probably already have a GM caliper, so the following tip wont scare 
you- its obvious the only safe way to run disc frt/drum rear setup is 
with a proportioning valve.... the GM A-body prop has the perfect bias 
for the weight distribution on the 57-9 body.  but that info is founded 
solely on experimentation [i've only done the entire conversion about 
17 times, with 7 awaiting in the next year or so as i write]

 

as for the adapter plate, it will bolt on and allow use of the 2-bolt.  
but instead of buying one, you can just redrill the firewall/plate to 
2-bolt configuration, make a spacer plate to close the area, and use 
the 4 existing studs to retain the plate... did that twice too, on a 
parts-laying-around to fix daily drivers.  the spacer is cast and can 
crack- pushing the master out of the way=no stopping 




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