> What is the secret to aligning the cable at the transmission
> end, so that my car won't go into gear when it's in neutral ?
Ron,
Here's an old email from Dave Grove that helped me align mine. (We miss you
still, Dave.)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Grove Grove Automotive [mailto:groveautomotive@xxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 1:08 PM
> To: Dan Morton
> Subject: Re: Re: [FWDLK] Leaks 'R Us
>
> Hello Dan.
> That "shaft" is the actual shift cable. It is connected to
> the valve body inside the trans.
> It is much easier to describe *how* to disconnect it than to
> actually do it (IMHO anyway), but it will help to know what
> you are dealing with. What retains the cable to the valve
> body is a "hairpin clip". To disengage this clip, you need
> only to "move" the bottom of the "straight" side of it to one
> side. You can do this with an ice pick or something
> similiar. Reach into the hole with your pick (or whatever)
> and "feel around" on the bottom side of the cable, - you
> should be able to find the bottom part of the clip.
> Move to one side and attempt to remove the cable (just pull on it).
> Eventually, - it will come out.
> Another approach you may consider is to remove the trans pan.
> This will allow you to actually "see" what you are doing and
> make things a lot easier.
> I would recommend this in your case for another reason, -
> when it comes time to re-install & adjust the shaft cable, -
> you *will* need to be able to see what's going on. If your
> service manual does not tell you how to remove the cable, - I
> doubt seriously if it will tell you how to adjust it.
> Besides, - the "adjustment" procedure is so "complicated" (to
> me anyway), that I always just remove the pan to begin with
> and be done with it. The only time I will NOT (remove the
> pan) is if no one has "touched" the adjuster wheel, the
> adjustment is correct at the moment, and I will not have to
> "move" the adjuster wheel in order to do whatever it is I'm
> going to do with the shift cable (I also "mark" where the
> wheel is before I remove the bolt).
> Since I think you stated that the wheel has been moved
> ("rotated"), - you will probably have trouble getting the
> adjustment correct unless you do it the "simple" way (as in
> "look" at it), - and what you are "looking" for is that the
> "pointer" on the valve body piece (the one the cable snaps
> into) that contacts the neutral safety switch is perfectly
> centered on the switch when the "N" button is pushed. This
> point is changed by rotating the adjuster wheel on the cable
> casing. You probably noticed there are many holes for the
> bolt to go through, - this is so you can get the adjustment perfect.
> 'Course now you need to be looking for a pan gasket.........
>
> Regards,
> DaveG.
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