[FWDLK] Fwd: [FWDLK] Fwd: Re: [FWDLK] Oils ? Well....
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

[FWDLK] Fwd: [FWDLK] Fwd: Re: [FWDLK] Oils ? Well....



I completely agree with Rick that multi-viscosity oils do not provide higher viscosity at higher temperatures, as represented by the oil companies.  When my dad was in charge of maintaining a fleet of buses back in the 1940s, they were continually rebuilding engines due rod and main bearing wear out.  When they switched from 10W30 to straight 30 motor oil, the engines rarely had to be rebuilt.  Of course, back then, the bearings were probably the babbitt type.  Nevertheless, I use straight 30 from March to December and switch to 10W30 only for the winter months.  If I lived in a warmer climate, I wouldn't switch at all.  I use whichever oil brand is cheapest (but not a non-detergent cheapie), frequently including the in-house WalMart brand.  I had a 1987 Dodge van (360 engine) that I bought new which had 240K miles before I sold it, and the engine was never apart for any reason.  No engine noises, compression, or problems either.  Then, I had a 1994 Dodge van (318 engine) that I ran to 220K miles before selling it.  Again, no engine noises, etc.  In my view, a straight 30 oil provides a cushion for bearings and other internal engine parts that a 10W30 or other multi-viscosity cannot.  My oil changes are at about 7000 miles, always with a filter change.

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1

--- Begin Message ---
  • From: eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:20:20 -0700
I THINK we can, now, "Forward" messages to the List, now.

This one's from Rick "AlumCan", from the FWDLK's 'other' chat-boards!

And, now; Heeeeeeeere's RICK !!!! 


*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
--- Begin Message ---
  • From: AlumcanTandThd@xxxxxxx
  • Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 00:57:20 EDT
Hey Neil.  Could you 'post' this on your/the mailing list, in the multi grade oil topic, for me, please?  OK? (I don't have access to post over there)
Thanks!
 
I do NOT believe in a multi grade of oil!  They DON'T work the way they say they do!
I have proved it, and seen proof.  To me, it's ALL bullshit!
Back in the '60's when 10w-40 first appeared, Dad was on a team, that was to 'rate' which brand name of oil was superior to all the rest.  Popular Science, Mechanics, or some outfit was spearheading this, all out test. 
(I can't remember which brand name was better, but, what I do remember, that ALL of the PA blends had better lubrication qualities than the ash based oils!)
What I DO remember about the test, Dad was working on, was, how the multi grade of oils, ALL of them, failed miserably, when compared to the same brand, only in a straight weight! 
Early multi grades of oil carboned up severely.
One of the test machines they used, had a pyramid style ,stack of ball bearings.  Only the bottom row of bearings were (half way, or less?) in oil.  The rest of the bearings that were on top, got lubricated by the oil being carried upward by each stack.
Something came down, and put so much measured pressure on the whole stack of bearings. (???)  It was timed when the top row of bearings galded.
The straight weight oils failure times, were measured in several minutes where the multi grades were measured in mere seconds!
I did this test for myself.  I took a eye dropper of 20w Wolfs Head, and another eye dropper of 10w-30 WH, and put them both in the freezer.  I had one of my highly polished pieces of stainless steel.  I squeezed out the entire contends of each eye dropper at the same time on each side of the SS and quickly stood it up straight.  The 20 w ran first.
I then took a eye dropper of WH 30 w, and a eye dropper of WH 10w-40, and had each in a 200 degree pot of almost boiling water.  I squeezed out each at the same time, as a did on the freezer oil, on the sheet of SS, and before I could stand the metal up, the 10w-40 ran off the metal onto the floor!
I was up a Carlisle one time, and some high speed snake oil salesman was touting how superior his multi grade (can't remember which brand, who cares) was, to other brands of oils.  I happen to have (rare occasion) several, hundred dollar bills.  I throwed them ALL down right in front of him, and said, "here, you pour out that quart of oil you got there in that pan, reach in, and hand me the thermometer, thermostat, or whatever is in there, to tell that oil when to be thick and when to be thin" and all that money is yours!  To cut the story short, he knew he couldn't do it, and I knew he couldn't do it.  He stammered and stuttered and tried to ignore me, and change the subject.
I too, have used straight weight 20 w (winter) and 30 w (summer) Wolfs Head, from the very early 60's up until the early 90's.  Only place here that sold WH would only get a small shipment, and would run out.
I STILL use WH, 30w, Heavy Duty, (green label) in the lawn mowers.  '82, iron, 16 horse, single, Kohler in a John Deere, (NEVER been rebuilt!  A guy at work has the same motor in a Cub Cadet, a year older, or, a year newer, and, he had to rebuild his motor TWICE!  Used a 10w-40 multi grade) and a, el cheap-o, 17 horse, Briggs in a Murarry!  (or however it's spelled)  I still use the Wolf's Head, 30 w, Air Compressor oil (red label) in my iron, 7 hp, Campell-Hausfield compressor.
Wife's '78 Dodge Ramcharger had nothing but straight weight WH, up until the body rusted off the frame. (110K mostly short 7, 8, mile trips.)  She got a brand splinter new, '93, full sized Bronco  351.  Had NOTHING but straight wight 20 w (winter) 30w (summer) Valvoline up until in hit 150K.  Then, after that, it's had nothing but 30 w year round.  It's got 196K on it now.
When it hits 200K I'll use 40 w in the summer and the 30 w in the winter.  Up until last year, she jerked a 2 horse trailer, sometimes overloaded, for about a 100K of those miles!  Still has the orginal auto tranny also!  Change, filter/fluid ever 10K.
Now here is the kicker!  I STILL use (sparingly now, less than 10 mpg) a old '81 HD, one of those 'high-boys', F-350 4x4 SRW, pick-em-up, I bought used in '85.  Old lead crank 400, with a 'granny' 4-speed.  I started out with 30w Valvoline then switched to 40w at a quarter million miles.  Then, ran 40w winter and 50w summer at 300+K.  At 400K I used 50w year round.
Right now that motor/truck has 514K miles, and the heads have NEVER been off!!!
When the ambient temp got below freezing, I would plug the block heater in.  When that broke, I laid a 100w light bulb against the block.  When the temp got in the single digits, or below, I had a small propane torch, I would heat up the bottom of the oil pan.
Don't believe me!?  Well stop by, and I'll take you a ride in the old girl!  ( gotta bring a 5 gal can of gas though)
The ONLY things multi grade oil is good for, I setting brush piles on fire, or pouring on the dirt roads to keep the dust down!
Slowly shaking bowed head back and forth with eyes closed.
 

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1


--- End Message ---

--- End Message ---



Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.