Larry,
Solder will bond much better to copper than pot metal. Maybe not at all to
pot metal. So copper plating is very necessary if solder repairs are to be
done.
Silver solder would not be a good choice, as it is intended for applications
where a higher melting point is needed. One could consult with a plating
shop for suggestions, but I think ordinary electrical solder would be best.
It has the lowest melting point so electrical components are not damaged.
Ask for 63/37 type (63% tin and 37% lead) (60/40 is just as good), as it has
the lowest melting point of all solders. Since this solder has lead in it,
it may be harder to find these days, since the EPA has pushed industry to
get the lead out. Plumber's solder has a much higher melting point.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
[mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Larry Gardinier
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:18 AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Pitted Pot-Metal
Sounds logical, but this is still my first attempt so I haven't tried it.
You may be right even only because the pits will be little smaller when you
start. I'm committed to finding a solution here, I don't expect to give up
tinkering on old cars anytime soon and it's not as if this problem will go
away. So I'm watching this thread closely for any and all suggestions.
I didn't find any problems with the pot metal being too soft. The copper
plating before repair may be an unnecessary step since they will they will
have to polish the part both before and after the fill solder. As for the
heat, the flux changes color at the correct temp which is 350 and pot metal
starts to melt around 700 (which I did) the window between hot enough and
too hot is fairly comfortable unless the part is very thin. I tried silver
solder and melted the pot metal at about the same temp as the solder.
Fortunately it was a donor piece of pot metal that I expected to damage.
Thanks,
Larry Gardinier
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Paul Holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Larry Gardinier wrote:
> > I have personal experience with a product called Muggy Weld and a
propane
> torch. It's like a solder that melts at a lower heat range so as not to
melt pot
> metal. I first used a dremel tool with a diamond tip to clean out the
pits. Then
> I used the Muggy Weld to fill the pits- that didn't work very well. The
chrome
> shop grinders and polishers knocked most of it back out. Luckily they were
> patient with me and told me of the problem and invited me to bring my
stuff down
> to the shop and try again. Since the chrome and nickle had been removed
the pits
> were easier to fill and they did final polishing while I waited so I could
see
> the results. Now everything is at the platers and should be back later
this week
> so we'll see how it all turns out. To grind the Muggy Weld I used a
sanding disc
> on my Dremel, actually I used a LOT of sanding discs.
> > I would suggest you find a chrome shop near you and be thier friends.
Bring
> them bottled water, beer, women, whatever, tell them you are experimenting
with
> the product and ask if they would price the grinding and polishing
seperately
> with the promise that they will do the plating. When they've made the
parts look
> as good as they can take them back to fill the pits.
> > Hope this helps!
> > Larry Gardinier
>
> ok, musings on problem
>
> would this workout???
>
> take to platers and have the chrome and copper layers stripped off
>
> would getting the base coat of copper refreshed plate the pits???
>
> If the replating in copper does place a layer of copper in the pits
> would this then provide a stronger surface adheasion for the muggy weld,
> or a good base for some other flows when hot enough material???
>
> sand the results then copper plate again for the chrome to be done
>
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
> Hoosier Corps L#6
>
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