Well after reading about y'all having fun removing trannys from seized motors, I
decided to get off my duff and have my own fun. I have had a 318 poly and cast iron
t-flight sitting in front of my bench since I pulled them from a donor car at least 2
probably closer to 3 years ago. Can't believe I have been working around it that long
but something else always came first. Anyhow, the motor was definitely seized so I
unbolted the trans, slid her back, unbolted the bell housing and had to literally
pry/hammer untill the final align pin popped (never been apart I suspect), and 8
bolts later the torque converter was on the floor. Trans, bell housing, and converter
out to the Mopar shed. Then I cleared out crap I ain't never going to use and the
floor jack put the motor under the bench. Voila, I can stand at the bench and work
again!. Thanks David for the spark to get going and do some house cleaning. Gotta
love this list!
Doug
raining in Seatlle so ya work inside
David Homstad wrote:
> Larry,
>
> 1. The only functional difference between the 2 torque converters is the
> cooling fins. The 58 TC will work fine on your 59. On a liquid cooled tranny
> the fins just add extra cooling, which is a very good thing. If you do not
> use liquid cooling, they are critical. For the fins to be effective, you
> need to use the 58 bellhousing with the screened openings for cooling
> airflow. I would use both the bellhousing and finned TC, and hook up the
> liquid cooling lines.
>
> 2. The remove the 58 TC: Remove the bolts holding the trans case to the bell
> housing and slide the trans straight back. It will "un-plug" from the torque
> converter. Or you can leave the bell housing and trans attached and un-bolt
> from the engine, and then slid it all back.
> 3. The spacer plate (between engine and bell housing) has one bolt (holding
> it to the engine) near the RH alignment pin that is NOT accessible until
> AFTER the bell housing is removed. It is necessary to leave the spacer plate
> on the engine when the bell housing is removed.
> 4. The torque converter will remain bolted to the crank. After the bell
> housing is removed, un-bolt (one bolt) the spacer plate and remove. All 8
> nuts holding the torque converter studs to the crank should be accessible
> now.
>
> Dave Homstad
> 56 Dodge D500
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
> [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Larry Ashbaugh
> Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 9:16 PM
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [FWDLK] Torque Converter From Hell
>
> Alright, I need help. The transmission shop wants the torqueconverter from
> the Powerflite to compare with what they took out of my 59 Coronet, whose
> transmission was filling up with hardpart shavings, a not-so-good thing.
> Since this tranny is from my 58 parts car, it is the air-cooled, vice
> liquid-cooled tranny from the 59, and has the little vanes for cooling. You
> have told me to use the torqueconverter from the 58 for cooling, or go to
> the liquid-cooled for better cooling. Not sure the shop knows which way to
> go and I just want my car back.
>
> Problem: the torqueconverter is bolted to the engine flywheel with 6-8
> bolts in the front, and the engine is seized, so the torqueconverter
> (flywheel) is not going to move. How can I get this thing away from the
> engine if the engine doesn't turn so I can get to the bolts? Help!!!!!!
>
> Appreciate you assistance. Thanks, guys.
>
> LARRY in rainy, rainy, and even more rainy Ohio.
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network