Hi Brandie-- This happened on my '59 Desoto, and it was due to rusty wheel cylinders. Rust forms in the exposed part of the cylinder when the piston is "in", then when the piston is actuated it hits the rust and stops. You can usually get the car rolling by switching between reverse and forward (effectively changing the leading edge of the shoes). Others have said that it could be the master cylinder pushrod adjustment, and that might be true if all wheels were affected equally. Brakelines corroding shut is also occasionally blamed, and if they're suspicious I'd replace them along with everything else on both front wheels, and turn the drums. There's no sense in taking any shortcuts--just headaches in the long run. A long shot is also a leaky seal that gets grease on the drum surface, then shoes kind of stick once they're actuated. My brakes still aren't quite right--they grab quite a bit until they've been used a lot, then start grabbing all over again the next time I drive the car. Maybe that's why the disk conversion seems to be so popular! Best, Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: Brandie Hannon <HannonsVT@xxxxxxx> Date: Friday, April 16, 2004 1:10 am Subject: [FWDLK] Brake Help > Hello Everyone! > > My passenger front brake locked up on the way to get my son at > school the > other day. I had the car towed home, and am wondering if there are > any words of > wisdom you can offer me before I take the darned thing apart. > > Thanks > Brandie > 58 Plymitt > California > Dr. Ed Vitz Professor of Chemistry Editor, Tested Demonstrations, J. Chem. Educ. Kutztown University, Kutztown PA 19530 610.683.4443 http://faculty.kutztown.edu/vitz/ |