When removing the LT rear drum on (now mine) a 57 Belv that hadn't moved in
10+ years, I grabbed my monster (hadn't failed me yet) 3 claw puller (Harbor
Freight...). Getting everything off the spindle went well (3/4" socket set
w/ 4' breaker bar). The claw held nicely but began to warp the drum
slightly. After multiple heating/cooling cycles with acetylene torch and
hammering (1 LB sledge), I was able to fold that sucker into a drum
sandwich!!!!!! But it CAME OFF. Replacement came from a local junkyard
Fury but with a MOLAR puller loaned from a (been there forever..) local
machine/radiator shop. It took a week of my time at the junkyard and the
local muscle man w/ 3 LB. sledge to finally pop the "new" drum off. All
this to say.....The Job goes smoother when you've got the right tools. And
don't use a "claw" puller as there's not much use for drum
sandwiches.............Biff Cicio w/ 57 Belv a/t in need of 318 due to
freeze plug blow-out on the freeway. (It took less than a mile to lose the
water & burn the oil) N Cal (got good brakes : )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rog & Jan van Hoy" <vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] drum puller info?
> I got one of those super dooper pullers but have never used
> it. The principle is different than the usual puller; this
> one is basically just a really heavy plate with five holes
> and a set of bolts.
>
> --Roger van Hoy, '55 DeSoto, '58 DeSoto, '42 DeSoto, '41
> Dodge, '66 Plymouth, '81 Imperial, Washougal, WA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Ed Vitz" <vitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 10:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] drum puller info?
>
>
> | Hi all--
> | I've just been lurking 'till now but this is a question
> I can help with (most of you know much more than I).
> | I met Les Fairbanks at a DeSoto Club meeting, and he
> sells a custom made drum puller. 616.463.5260,
> lessue@xxxxxxxxxxx, 4965 Park Dr., Watervliet, MI 49098. I
> didn't buy one (they were about $100?), because I still use
> the big hammer and acetylene torch method. Some of the hubs
> on late 50's cars are rusted on too well for even a real big
> hammer, and the drum puller is a good idea. If you just
> want to work on brakes, you can usually remove the drum from
> the hub with a hammer, pounding on one side while pulling
> one the other. Too little a whack, and you get nowhere; too
> big a whack and you can crack the drum. Let me know how you
> make out.
> |
> | I live in Kutztown, PA, and have a '59 Firesweep 4 dr,
> '52 Plymouth convertible, '68 Fury convertible, and '57
> retractable, all drivers in varying stages of restoration.
> Dave, your intrepid listmanager, put the "Dr." in front of
> my name--I'm not a "real" doctor, just the chemist kind.
> Quit a good job at my dad's garage and went to grad school,
> but still remember which end of the hammer to pick up.
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