Re: [FWDLK] them's the brakes

[eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>]

Zach, I've been expatriated from the WPC since 1991-@ time of the
"Sell-Out".

I THINK that the WPC re-print (7/03) is of my first article
(front-brakes)--There is a second article, on the rear brake
change-over.

Anyway, the late-60's 11x 2 1/2" &  11x3"  'Bendix-style' brake drums'
backing-plates have a "flat-top" section, to their axle-flange-mating-
areas. The Tapered axles have fully-round axle flanges.

All you have to do is grind-off the Tapered-axle flange (ABOVE the
mounting-studs) , across the area between:   "11:00-to 1:00", on the
flanges--that will allow the Bendixes to mate to the Tapereds. ALSO, you
gotta cut-out around the mounting-holes on the 'Center-planes'
backing-plate, to preserve the axle-seal-holding-shoulders, on the
Centerplane backing plate.

As I've said before, the 'dirty-little-secret', with the tapered axles,
is that their "swaged" mounting-studs can be popped-out, and replaced
with 'standard' -shouldered studs, that will allow the brake drums to
FALL-OFF of the axles, without having to resort to a "puller".

Because I didn''t replace the swaged studs, when I installed the
Bendixes, I used several standard steel washers to make-up the SLIGHT
distance 'lost'(?) when the Bendixes were installed. "Proper-length"
shouldered-studs woyuld require no such studs.

AND. I've experienced NO (as in: NOOOOO)
problems with installing 'shouldered' studs, to replace the
swaged-studs--and I'm running a 3.55:1 Sure Grip.

I'd try installing the easier-to-find 11x 2 1/2"
rear brakes , first, & see how they 'work' , before installing the
11x3"ers.

Neil

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