Title: Message
I
would like to add my two cents about proportioning valves. The use of
a combination valve is much better than the use of a single adjustable
proportioning valve in the rear for all the reasons listed below by Dave -
the inclusion of metering and residual pressures. Additionally, I am
under the impression that combination valves are actual proportioning valves,
giving typically a 65/35 split (I believe) of the total pressure to the front
and back. The adjustable valve in the rear does not proportion the pressure. It
just cuts pressure to the rear to prevent lockup. What this amounts to is more
pressure required by the driver to get the car to stop when a combination valve
is not used. The best way to set it up in my opinion, is to use a combination
valve as well as an adjustable valve in the rear if your car still locks up the
rears during an emergency stop.
Additionally, be sure to use a manual master cylinder
if you are not using power brakes. The manual master has a smaller bore size to
generate more pressure with the same amount of pedal force. It is also not a bad
idea to alter the lever arm (torque) on the pedal if you are converting from
power to manual or vice-versa. I am not sure about FWDLK cars, but GM typically
had two holes in the pedal arm. The lower one was for use with power brakes, and
the upper one was for use with manual brakes to improve the pedal
feel.
Nathan
Nuttall
56
Savoy
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