Bill, you wrote: "in physics pressure is directly proportional to temperature (and vice-versa) where volume remains constant". This applies to a gas, but not to a liquid. Water essentially shows no significant change in volume due to pressure or temperature changes until it reaches one of the temperatures at which it "changes state" (solid to liquid and liquid to gas). This is obviously freezing point and boiling point of the liquid. Antifreeze merely changes those points. You also wrote: "if you drop down to a 7-lb cap, you will also have to change the thermostat to a lower rating." As was originally stated by Neil, pressurizing a volume of water raises its boiling point by 3 degrees F for every pound of pressure, thus no worry about boiling over with a 7lb cap until 212 + (7x3) = 233 F. And this is WITHOUT the effect of adding whatever concentration of antifreeze you choose. My '88 Suburban with a 15 lb cap runs at over 220 degrees on any long run towing a trailer, but that is 37 degrees below its boiling point without benefit of antifreeze. The only potential problem with pressurizing older systems is their susceptibility to water pump, hose and gasket bursts and leaks. So there should be no need for Neil to change the thermostat to a cooler one, since even a 7lb pressurized system would give you 53 degrees of leeway above a 180 degree thermostat. Bob O. (Piled higher & Deeper) PS. Incidentally this phenomenon of soaking up heat until a change of state results is why a/c systems can work so well: in its liquid (compressed) form a refrigerant like Freon or ammonia can soak up masses of heat without expanding, but then when it is allowed to expand in the evaporator (due to a sudden reduction in pressure), that heat is instantly released and can then be exchanged across the condenser prior to being recompressed into its liquid state by the compressor. Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 21:52:10 -0700 From: Bill Watson <wwatson@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: New Antifreeze (was Mr. Dodge) No line pressure? No-pressure radiator cao? No thermostat, too? With no pressure in the system, you must not have any temperature, either. After all, in physics pressure is directly proportional to temperature (and vice-versa) where volume remains constant. The other possibility is that you do not fill the coolant system to capacity. The expanding coolant will take up the "unused" room. (Air can be compressed more than fluid can.) I don't think you have all the facts yet, Also, if you drop down to a 7-lb cap, you will also have to change the thermostat to a lower rating. Again, it is that relationship between temperature and pressure. If you lower your rad cap pressure, and keep your standard 180/190 thermostat, the rad cap will open as soon as the thermostat opens. Cars have 15-lb radiator caps to handle the higher temperatures, which produces higher pressures. If you go back to the days when cars had 7-lb (or less) rad caps, the cars used a 150 or 160 thermostat. (Which is one reason why heaters today are so much better - the coolant they use is hotter now than before.) Bill Vancouver, BC -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Need an answer fast? Search the 17,000+ pages of the Forward Look Mailing List archives at http://www.forwardlook.net/search.htm
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