Thanks, again, Tom; I believe that "we" have provided the Board with
significant information, regarding the testing/adjustment (but NOT the
repair) of fuel gauges.
Just wanted to mention that I sucessfully re-installed my gauge, and it
appears to be working fine!!!!! It presently indicates slightly-less
than fully-full (just where it should be, & it 'SNAPS' over to the
'full-level' , when the 'juice' is applied.
BTW, a person should probably well-lube the 'hinge' mechanism, in the
gauge, with a fine 'clock-lube'. Me? I use WD-40, & it has kept my clock
running like a .... for MANY years, now; I just 'shoot' it thru the
small hole in the back of the clock, hope 4-the best, & "it" has worked
for me, several times, in the past. Really love WD-40
I do have a "trade-secret" about adjusting a clock's 'performane;
another time....
Neil Vedder
Bishop, CA
--- Begin Message ---
- From: "Thomas O. Snipes Jr." <tsnipes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 04:20:08 -0700
Hello Neil,
Thanks for the kind words. I am located in San Diego, CA.
Tom
-----------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:16 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] EUREKA (actually, I'm in Bishop, CA)
> First, special thanks to Glenn Barratt, of Auckland (as in NZ!) who
> tested 2 'spare' tank sending units (& who found 1 of them to be in-op!)
> with an ohm-meter, and recorded resistances of 16 (FULL) - 207 (EMPTY)
> ohms, @ the sending unit.
>
> And, Tom Snipes (from somewhere in the U. S. of A.) who has previously
> 'scored' a "schematic-&-wiring-diagram", for 1958 Plymouths, which
> states that the O.E.M. values for (the '58 PLY) fuel gauge should be 20
> - 210 ohms! Whatta correlation!!!
>
> Also, a big thenk-U to Davie Homstad, of MN, for his un-flagging
> support/advise!
>
> My local electrical-genius provided a suitable "Resistor-Decade-Box", so
> that "we (ahem) " could, finally, dial-in my fuel gauge.
>
> If you merely want to find out whether you might have a
> fuel-gauge-"paperweight" (I have TWO of them, I discover), or , an
> "operating" gauge, you need to take your gauge, in question, 'to' your
> car's battery, and :
>
> 1. connect a wire ( preferably a "fuse-jumper") from ANY the gauge's
> 4-power-terminal-bus, to the battery's POSITIVE terminal.
>
> 2. "TOUCH", a second wire from the gauge's tank-sending -unit's "input"
> terminal, to any good-ground (eg: bumper), & watch (PRAY) for any
> needle-movement! (hopefully, full-deflection).
>
> Assuming that you've got a live-gauge, you can, then, beg/borrow/buy
> (please don't steal) a "decade-box", and do the following:
>
> 1. connect one 'lead' from the D-B to NEG terminal (ground) on battery.
>
> 2. connect the 'other' lead on the D-B to the "tank-sending-unit's"
> input terminal, on the gauge.
>
> 3. dial-in 20 ohms on the D-B, & "adjust/move" the left-side 'horseshoe'
> adjuster, on the gauge, til you are satisfied with the position of the
> needle "at-Full- tank".
>
> 4. dial-in 210 ohms on the D-B & "ditto", but with the right-side
> 'horseshoe' adjuster, til you are 'satisfied' with where "Empty" shall
> be, on your gauge.
>
> I found that I could 'make' the gauge register "Full", with the needle
> in-line with the "full-mark", but, that "Empty" "wants" to be at
> slightly-past the Empty-mark, on the gauge, in order to have 1/2-tank
> (mid-scale deflection) appear at VERY-SLIGHTLY over "1/2
> -tank-indicated" , on the gauge.
>
> NOW, I only have to re-install the gauge, into the car, & see "what"
> develops(!!!!!!!!!!!!) on/with the gauge!
>
> Time will tell......
>
> Neil Vedder
> 57 CRL D500
>
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>
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