[FWDLK] EUREKA (actually, I'm in Bishop, CA)
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[FWDLK] EUREKA (actually, I'm in Bishop, CA)



First, special thanks to Glenn Barratt, of Auckland (as in NZ!) who
tested 2 'spare' tank sending units (& who found 1 of them to be in-op!)
with an ohm-meter, and recorded resistances of 16 (FULL)  - 207 (EMPTY)
ohms, @ the sending unit.

And, Tom Snipes (from somewhere in the U. S. of A.) who has previously
'scored' a "schematic-&-wiring-diagram", for 1958 Plymouths, which
states that the O.E.M. values for (the '58 PLY) fuel gauge should be  20
- 210 ohms!         Whatta correlation!!!

Also, a big thenk-U to Davie Homstad, of MN, for his un-flagging
support/advise!

My local electrical-genius provided a suitable "Resistor-Decade-Box", so
that "we (ahem) " could, finally, dial-in my fuel gauge.

If you merely want to find out whether you might have a
fuel-gauge-"paperweight" (I have TWO of them, I discover), or , an
"operating" gauge, you need to take your gauge, in question,  'to' your
car's battery, and :

1. connect a wire ( preferably a "fuse-jumper")  from  ANY the gauge's
4-power-terminal-bus, to the battery's POSITIVE terminal.

2. "TOUCH", a second wire from the gauge's tank-sending -unit's "input"
terminal, to any good-ground (eg: bumper), & watch (PRAY) for any
needle-movement! (hopefully, full-deflection).

Assuming that you've got a live-gauge, you can, then,  beg/borrow/buy
(please don't steal) a "decade-box", and do the following:

1. connect  one 'lead' from the D-B to NEG terminal (ground) on battery.

2.  connect the 'other' lead on the D-B to the "tank-sending-unit's"
input terminal, on the gauge.

3. dial-in 20 ohms on the D-B, & "adjust/move" the left-side 'horseshoe'
adjuster, on the gauge, til you are satisfied with the position of the
needle "at-Full- tank".

4. dial-in 210 ohms on the D-B  & "ditto", but with the right-side
'horseshoe' adjuster, til you are 'satisfied' with where "Empty" shall
be, on your gauge.

I found that I could 'make' the gauge register "Full", with the needle
in-line with the "full-mark", but, that "Empty"  "wants" to be at
slightly-past the Empty-mark, on the gauge, in order to have 1/2-tank
(mid-scale deflection) appear at VERY-SLIGHTLY over "1/2
-tank-indicated" , on the gauge.

NOW, I only  have to re-install the gauge, into the car, & see "what"
develops(!!!!!!!!!!!!) on/with the gauge!

Time will tell......

Neil Vedder
57 CRL D500

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