[FWDLK] freeing up a motor

["Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@xxxxxxx>]

I found this on a webpage, it's a question about freeing up a motor and I
found it interesting since I'm about to pick up a 30's farmall tractor
that's been sitting under a tree since the mid 60's. I'm sure it's stuck

>Dragged home a 46 Ford this summer that has been sitting about 30 years.
Originally parked due to a bad radiator and then pretty much abandoned.
>Hood on, original air cleaner ( oil filled) on , plugs in place, etc since
parked.
>Hopefully the block was sufficiently drained when the radiator and hoses
were pulled or whatever the owner did then.
>I would like to go thru the steps to at least try and turn this engine (
Oh--its a 59A V-8, not a 6) over manually and maybe even get it running (
dream on) or at least establish its condition. Visually it looks OK, no
cracks or rust marks visible.
>
>Ideas??
>
Try the oil-soaked cylinder method first, you may get lucky.
If it turns over, change the oil before attempting to spin it over on
the starter and pumping old oil back into the system.
If you can get it started, you may find a stuck valve or two.
Run the engine and pour liberal amounts of Marvel Mystery oil down
the carb. Pour is slowly so as not to hydrolock the engine but fast
enough that you're nearly choking the engine. It'll REALLY smoke but
you'll be lubricating the valve stems in the process. After you have
a couple of cupfuls run through teh engine, pour it a tad faster so that it
chokes out the engine and let it sit for a couple of days.
Pull the plugs and spray them with starting fluid to wash off the oil.
Spin the engine over with the starter.
Put the plugs back in (or put in new plugs) and fire it up.
If the valve is still stuck, you'll have to pull the head and feee up
the valve. At least it'll have plenty of oil on the stem.
If the egine won't turn over by hand with a breaker bar, pull the
heads.
Clean the cylinder walls with a cone-shaped wire brush in an electric
drill.
Liberally oil the cylinder walls with a good penetrating oil and try
and turn the engine over. Let it sit again if necesary.
If you still can't get it to turn over, try heating the piston(s) to
break the bond to the cylinder walls.
I usually pull the oil pan and selectivly remove one connecting rod
cap at a time and try and free up the piston with an oak stick and a
3 pound mason's hammer.
I gently heat the piston to break the bond then tap it loose from the
bottom.
Then I grease the rod bearings (#5 Lubriplate) and put the cap back
on and move to the next easily-accessible piston and repeat the
process.
By the time I'm finished I can usually heat the last piston or two
and rotate the crank to free them up as well.

skip

Early hemi s.m.e.
Street rod wiring consultant
Free lance rod & custom journalist