It's hard to find anyone who can properly arc shoes to the drums anymore. New lineings are oftenn rough cut and produce mini hot spots. The reason for the lining to be slightly less radius than the drum is that the shoes flex ever so slightly under hard braking.and then you get total contact. One important trick if you can't get them arced and even if you can is always rough up the drum whether it's turned or not-and I mean very rough with 80 grit or coarser sandpaper. Also sand the lining surface and bevel the leading edges. Use the brakes as though you don't have any for a few hundred miles- break them in very gently so the high spots don't get glazed and they will serve you well. Never ever "burn" them in.. Gary LARSPAINTR@xxxxxxx wrote: > Sorry for 2nd post but > If I remember right, the idea was to match the lining dia to the drum dia. > This is esp true of the drums have been turned one or 2 or so times. > What U have then is a lining with one radius and a drum with the other. > These two will always be a poor fit UNLESS > one has a drum mike and measures the ID of the drum and has the linings > ground to the appropriate radius on a brake grinder. > I think my local old car parts store when it sells linings for old iron sells > oversized linings, that is, a larger diamater than for a 'new' car. That way > they are at least 'close' but of course not as fine as if you miked em and > ground the linings. > > Lars
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