>> I don't have the proper puller(and I don't believe it is made anymore) to
>remove the rear brake drums on my > 59 Ply, so how in blazes do I get the
>freaking things off???
Ron,
I tried a hub puller on my '60 Dodge, it didn't work. I spent many hours
trying to get them off, sent an E-mail to Ian Smale of the '60 Dodge web
page and he sent this information from Ron Wenzel.
Ron Wenzel, master Chrysler mechanic writes:
"The brake drum and hub are one assembly which are keyed to the axle on a
tapered shaft. This taper keeps the hub and drum assembly in perfect
concentricity with the axle when the shaft nut is secured to its specified
torque of 145 lbs. Once secured, this taper essentially locks the shaft
and hub together. The proper method to separating the two is to use a
puller which attaches to the drum by the use of the 5 lug bolts or nuts and
when tightened pushes against the threaded end of the axle shaft, breaking
the "taper set" and allowing the drum and hub to be pulled off.
Usually these drums require a lot of tension to remove them. When the
proper puller is used, an audible crack will be heard when the taper set is
released. Sometimes these hubs are on so tight that the threaded end of
the axle will be damaged by the excessive tension required to break it
loose. It is best to leave the nut on but backed off two or three turns.
Then if the shaft end and threads are damaged, the castelated nut will
chase the threads and clean them up a little bit as it is removed to remove
the hub and drum. I use a special "knock off nut" on the end of the shaft
to protect it from damage. Another precaution... when using a puller, get
one that uses all five lug bolts. Many pullers use only 3 of the five
bolts. If a drum is really on tight you will distort it using a 3 bolt
puller. I know, I've done it. My puller has 5 adapters and even then
sometimes I get one that I really have to fight to pull off.
Don't be tempted by some who say you can knock the hubs loose by hammering
on the end of the axle shaft. This procedure destroys the thrust block in
the centre of the differential which is made of very hard material but can
shatter like glass.
This design was used on all but Valiant up to and including 1964. Most
garages and service centres won't have the correct puller for this job.
Stay away from them!! They will destroy your drums and you will pay big
time. May I suggest that if you cannot borrow or rent the proper puller,
take your vehicle into your Chrysler Dealer. Be sure also that he has been
around long enough to have the correct tool in his tool room. This is not
an easy job without the proper equipment and the potential for expensive
damage is lurking around the corner if it is not done properly.
Regards,
Ron Wenzel."
I found a auto parts house that had an "old salt" who was familar with the
set up. I bought from him OTC brand tool number 7394. Not cheap, but it did
the trick.
Dan
'60Dodge Dart
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