Todd,
I live in Minnesota, so Winter is a familiar annual event. My prep for
winter is the following sequence:
1. Check all fluids and tire pressure. Check the antifreeze protection level.
2. Wash and clean as required.
3. Drive the car enough to heat the oil.
4. Change oil. This removes the acids carried in dirty oil. Also, the
suspended dirt particles in the oil can settle out (sludge) while in long
storage and not be picked back up later for removal with the next oil change.
5. Drive the car 10 to 20 miles to circulate the fresh oil throughout the engine
and heat the new oil to remove any blowby moisture. This also warms up the
exhaust system and evaporates any water. Park in storage only after a long
drive.
6. Fill the gas tank on the way to storage. This keeps air carrying humidity
from condensing water on the inside walls of the gas tank every time the
temperature drops.
7. Remove battery. Charge at least once a month.
8. In the spring, charge the battery. Check the fluids.
9. When starting after storage, crank the starter for 5 to 10 seconds to let
the oil pressure come up and the fuel reach the carb before setting the
choke and actuating the accelerator pump (not good for them when dry). Then
start the engine. Check for leaks.
I have done this with all 3 of my vehicles for 15 to 20 years on each, and
never had a problem.
For short term storage (6 months), it is not necessary to pour oil down the
carb or take the weight off the wheels. For long term storage, oil is a good
idea. Be carfull not to pour too fast, or you can get a "hydraulic lock."
This happens when the volume of oil in the cylinder exceeds the volume of
the combustion chamber. Oil does not compress, but rods can bend. Boat shops
carry an oil fogger in an aerosol can for spraying down the carb for boat
engines.
Options:
1. Mouse food. Mice really appreciate making a nest out of your nine warm
upholstry. I like to feed the mice (poison). Place this near the car, but
not in it. You want to draw them out, not in.
2. Car cover. Must be breathable, NO plastic. Preferably a professionallly
made type. If your storage location may leak, apply a plastic tarp over the
cover, leaving plenty of room for air to circulate under the car.
3. Plastic tarp under the car. This helps keep moisture from rising up from
a dirt floor or cold concrete (moisture condenses on cold concrete on warm
days, especially in the spring).
4. Gas stabilizers are not necessary for 6 months or less.
Dave Homstad, 56 Dodge D500
------------------------------------------------------------------------
At 07:16 AM 9/1/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, I hate to admit it, but for us Northern folks, winter isn't too far
away.
> I will likely be putting my car in unheated storage in October. Last year
I did
> the "pour trans fluid down the carb until the engine stalled" trick. It seemed
> to work although all the smoke when I started the car in the spring annoyed a
> few neighbors. I'd be interested in hearing from folks who have stored their
> cars in unheated garages for a number of winters who have had no problems in
> the spring. What works for you? I'll be pulling the battery, so the car will
> not be started at all. The wheels are coming off, so the car will be on
stands.
>
> Thanks
> Todd
>
>
>
>Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
>http://www.mailexcite.com
>
>
Dave
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