Dave -
Your power brake unit is probably misbehaving because the vacuum assist is
being activated later than it should. This happens because the finger at
the end of the brake pedal is bent out of alignment. There is a good write
up on this in the 57 - 58 Ply shop manual. There is also a gauge that can
be copied onto a piece of transparency material to help with alignment.
The holes are all there for the door; the car used a different inner
quarter if the car came with p/w.
The Delco/Dura p/w motors are stamped with the following assembly numbers:
5044292 for the front and 5044293 for the rear. This conforms the the
MOPAR part numbers 1810640 for the front and 1810682 for the quarter. I've
also come across a 5044345. Don't know how this one fits in.
Ron
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> From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [FWDLK] "It stops" hardtop -- Woo Hoo!!!
> Date: Saturday, May 16, 1998 11:50 PM
>
> Well,
>
> I finally dragged The Duchess kicking and screaming out of her winter
> slumber... I got the wheels back on, and set her on the floor for the
> first time in months.
>
> After a little bit of coaxing, I got the engine fired up, and backed her
> out. The power brake unit went in just fine, and works, albeit a bit
> strangely... It kicks in after a second or two. Is the hesitation
> normal? Well, a hesitating power stop is better than no stop at all, so
> color me happy. It's not a whole lot of power assist, but it's enough
> to make it comfortable.
>
> I even went to a cruise tonight, and met Henry Tolino, with a
> --beautiful-- '56 Imperial. We both got a car wash courtesy of Mother
> Nature, and I discovered that yes, indeed, my wipers do work.
>
> My engine, however, is now the problem du jour. Here's the situation,
> can anyone help me out? I keep killing pushrods on the exhaust valve on
> the rear driver's side cylinder. The adjuster actually grinds through
> the cup on the end of the pushrod until it breaks off. I noticed the
> "pin" on the rocker shaft was missing, so I replaced that. I figure the
> rocker shaft was spinning and not getting oil to the rocker. Also, I
> figured, that since the pin was missing, the oil pressure would not
> build up inside the rocker shaft, and maybe not get enough oil to the
> rocker.
>
> Does anyone think I may have a sticking lifter or valve? And if so, is
> there a "cure in a bottle" that can help out until I get the heads
> redone?
>
> Possibly along the same lines, the car wants to stall whenever I slow
> down for a stop light... And it idles a bit rough too. I'm guessing
> it's the classic burned valve scenario... Any opinions?
>
> To reiterate... It felt so so so so so so so so so so so so good to
> finally get the car out again. Last summer, I only got to take her out
> 4 times... Which, with payments, parts, insurance, etc., was around
> $2000 per trip. Ouch! I hope to get a much better cost/trip ratio this
> summer.
>
> One last thing, does anyone out there have a 2 door hardtop woth power
> windows? I need to know where (and how) to drill the holes for the
> wiring in the door pillar and on the door itself.
>
> -Dave Stragand
> 1958 Plymouth Savoy 2 door "Power Stop" hardtop!
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