Hi,
I haven't seen the ad for the product. Is it in Hemmings?
The thoughts I have about many of the rust conversion and rust protection
products come from our past family involvement for 34 years with the Ziebart
Rustproofing business.
The usual result we found was that bad prep work equals bad results. Some of
the labor saving chemicals tend to be thought of as "Miracle" products by some
and as a quick fix by the scam guys. I know that we all can't afford the costs
of a professional restoration, but there is no substitute for scraping,
sanding, grinding, blasting or dipping to achieve the most stable surface you
can achieve. Many of the chemicals will work with satisfaction, but the long
term results are directly tied to the prep work. We saw lots of beautiful
restorations that were destined for problems, and none of our chemicals could
hold back rust over poor prep work. The best results are usually on flat clean
metal, with no seams, pockets or flanges. If any part of seam or flange feels
swollen or has any "Crunch" then the only full cure is removal. The rust
process needs moisture to continue, and a lot of the chemicals attempt to
convert some of the rust and form a film over the metal. The car body is
always flexing and moving, and problems start if this film cracks or is
compromised in any way. This flexing is far worse in the swollen or crunchy
areas and constantly breaks the film, actually traps water and exposes new
metal to moisture. It's like the old asphalt factory undercoating. If water
ever gets behind it, watch out!
Once the car is painted, stable body seams can be treated with a thin
"Penetrant" type of petroleum rustproofing material (and nobody will see it if
done properly) if desired. If there's any interest I can write about what to
look for in a restoration rustproofing job (and not just with Ziebart,
either).
Jim from Detroit, Land of the Salt Trucks
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