Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser

["David Homstad" <dhomstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ron,

When you opened up your heat riser, was the exhaust pipe off so that you
could watch the valve open? I have experienced on more than one occasion
that even though the counter weight moves when tapped with a hammer, it is
only rotating on a frozen shaft and the valve does not move. Since my Dodge
is only driven in the summer, I cut the valve off the frozen shaft with a
chisle.

A few years ago, I also had a 65 Coronet 500 with a 383. The little
anti-rattle spring was missing from the heat riser. I think this went a long
way in keeping the valve from seizing up, as it had much more freedom to
rattle around and rub accumulated carbon and rust off the shaft/bearing. It
was 16 years old and had 170,000 miles when I sold it, and the heat riser
still rattled until the engine warmed up. I didn't notice the noise that
much because of the glass pack mufflers. My recommended action is to remove
the anti-rattle spring if the heat riser is not yet frozen.

Dave Homstad
56 Dodge CRL D500

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At 05:06 PM 11/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
>There is a manifold heat riser on the right exhaust manifold of my 58
>Plymouth.  Like most of these things, mine is frozen up.  A mechanic I
>spoke to told me that they're not really necessary unless you plan to drive
>your car in icy cold weather.  Since I only drive the Plymouth on warm
>days, is this a good solution ?  What I actually did was open it up 2/3 of
>the way, so a little heat will go up while most will go out the tailpipe.
>Any thoughts on this ?
>
>Ron
>
>
Dave