IML: Follow up on '65 improvements

["bill parker" <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I didn't get the '65 Crown ready to go for the Mopar Nats, the day before 
leaving I pulled the timing chain and gear set out of the box and found that 
the parts had been mixed up, had a wrong upper gear, and knew I didn't have 
time to get another one and get the motor buttoned back up in time to finish 
my roof clean-up.  So I re-aimed at the Monster Mopar weekend.  By the way, 
the listings for the timing set show different numbers for '65 and earlier, 
but I had a brand new double-roller assembly for a later big block, and 
checked it out, it was clear that it would work by slightly drilling out the 
dowel hole.  So I just went to the parts store, returned the wrong stuff, 
and bought a regular late model 440 set, which was in stock.  It fit right 
up and I didn't even have to drill the dowel on that one, it was big enough 
already, probably made big to allow for variances.

I said previously I would report on the effectiveness of my welding up the 
center carrier assembly.  On the highway, it transmitted some harmonic 
vibration beginning at around 45 MPH, and the vibration tapered off and 
completely ended by about 60MPH.  Since we drove over and back on I70, at a 
steady 65, I didn't worry about it during the trip.  What it tells me is 
that, since the carrier itself doesn't initiate vibration but only transmits 
vibration which originates in the driveshafts, I must need to take my shafts 
into the local driveshaft shop for a renewal of all joints and a balance 
job.  Then I'll see how the whole thing feels.  If I still have some 
vibration I'll give in and get a renewed carrier assembly.  (I saw that 
Frank Mitchell offered an NOS carrier on eBay a few weeks ago, but I don't 
know if I would trust 40 year old rubber and vulcanizing and it was at a 
premium price)

Another major chore was to do a temporary fix on the roof.  The vinyl was 
peeling off badly, leaving streamers following me around, to the point where 
I'd stripped the outer cover off several months ago, leaving only the 
underlayment still glued down.  There was some surface rust here and there, 
and I knew I'd need to fix that before getting a new top put on, so I 
decided to strip the roof, use POR-15 on the surface rust, prime it, and 
paint it satin black to both make it look more presentable and provide a 
nice surface under the new top when I get it.  The material stripped off 
pretty easily with a putty knife, then I used a D/A sander and 80 grit discs 
to strip off the glue and primer, down to bare metal.  I didn't remove the 
trim at this point so hand worked the metal up close in the corners of the 
trim.  I used the POR, feathered it out with the D/A after it cured, and 
primed with urethane hi-build etching primer.  This was on a hot day, the 
day before we were to leave for St. Looie, and I didn't have time to let the 
primer completely dry and sand it smooth before topcoating.  The primer had 
gone on a bit too hot and dry and therefore rougher than ideal.  I figured 
the satin trim paint wouldn't show it so bad so went ahead and painted.  
Wished I had a paint booth!  Anyway, it does show the roughness when you 
look at the right angle, but looks way better than the peeling ribbons of 
vinyl.  It's temporary anyway, I have the number of a guy who travels out of 
Louisville in the Kentuckiana area, putting new tops on at your business or 
residence.   He estimated mine would be around $250 installed.  I need to 
pull the trim around the edges and then make the appointment.

I did replace all the brake shoes, wheel cylinders, etc before the trip.  
Everything was readily available at NAPA for reasonable prices, although the 
wheel cylinders were nearly $20 each, more than Barracuda stuff of course.  
The new hoses were a bit shorter than the originals, but once installed 
worked like they were supposed to.  I got some squeeling out of the fronts 
while driving at low speeds during the trip, but that seems to have cleared 
up as they break in better.  I still really want to figure out a good disc 
brake change.  I'm parting out an '86 D150 truck right now, which has the 
bigger bolt pattern, same as the Imperial.  I'm going to do some measuring 
of the knuckles, etc.  It would be great to just keep the original wheels.  
Their center hole is bigger diameter than the truck's hubs, but I believe 
with the large studs and nuts, it will be OK.  Most custom wheels, both 
steel and aluminum, do not mate up to the center hub register and still work 
fine.  But for greatest safety I could use the truck wheels on the front and 
still use the original spare on them if I ever have a flat.  I understand 
that later disc brakes from a C or D body will work, up through '73, but if 
they are pre'73, they take the hard to find and expensive parts, and will be 
4.5" bolt pattern also.  At St. Louis, I saw that "The Right STuff", vendors 
of brake line kits and some other stuff, now are retailing the SSB style 
disc brake kits and their list showed a front kit now for '50-something to 
'64 D body.  I can't think why it wouldn't work on a '65, anyone know why 
not?  I didn't take time to talk to them more, but I assume they will be 
4.5" bolt pattern items.  I already converted my car to a dual master 
cylinder system, so the lines are set up for a disc brake master cylinder 
also, I just may need to add proportioning.

NAPA supplied all new belts and molded hoses, and all fit up like they were 
supposed to.  I was glad to toss the upper flex hose the previous owner had 
installed.  My radiator tests solid and is pretty clean, so I didnt' bother 
it.

Those rear helper shocks ended up working fine.  I lower the car off the 
lift with the shocks mounted at their upper eyes, but hanging free below.  
With the weight of the car on the concrete, the bottom shock eyes were 
several inches below the mounting points.  Once bolted up, they raised the 
rear bumper of the car probably about 2" higher than the front with no extra 
load.  Worked great with all our luggage, canopy, tools, etc in the trunk, 
cooler on the back seat, etc.

At the Monster Mopar I noted a few people actually taking the time to veer 
over and look at the Imperial in the midst of all the Cudas, so that was 
nice.  Kathi really liked the extra room for the trip too.  We got nearly 14 
MPG on the interstate travel, even with the odometer actually reading about 
5% low as checked against the mile markers.  Maybe I should start working on 
getting the A/C repaired!


Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana
'56 Chrysler Windsor; '60 Chrysler Saratoga; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 
Dart convertible; '65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda FB 340-S; 
'69 Barracuda FB now 360; '72 Cuda '340




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