IML: Protecting the Expensive Rocker Type Headlamp Switch
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IML: Protecting the Expensive Rocker Type Headlamp Switch



Bob,
I understand those switches are hard to find / expensive. I'm finding some benefit with crimping down the female connectors at my high power drawing plug-on connectors. After 30 years of being heated and cooled with general usage and with the vibrations accompanied with driving, the metal female connector ends have a tendency to open up. When they do this, they lose an effective consistant tight connection which builds heat. I take the metal pick in my Leatherman's pocket knife and use it to lift the holding tang on the connector to release it from the plastic plug housing. With the connector out of its plastic holder, I can then do a clean up of the connector and crimp down the rolled sides to make a tighter fit to it's male counterpart.


Putting a relay in the headlamp circuit would be the preferred way to extend the life of these switches. An excellent site for this upgrade is http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
Dan also supply's the needed equipment under the "Products" part of his website, http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
The effect of this upgrade is to reroute the 100+/- watts that would normally run through the headlamp switch and send it through a relay instead. The end effect is that you are only running the small amount of power that the relay uses through the headlamp switch.


I've replied with this info a number of times for you hot-headlamp-switch syndrome Haze Green Era folks, has anyone made the upgrade with the result of a less hot headlamp rocker switch? With the cost of these switches, the relayed circuit upgrade would be a cost effective (ask Dan if he still offer's his MOPARite discount, he's mopar sympathetic) preventative maintenance procedure. $45-55 for the relay plus a couple bucks in wiring and connectors vs $100 for a NOS switch just makes $ense. The installation is very easy, I installed one in my '72 Newport and only had to putz around the front of the engine compartment to mount the relay and do the necessary wiring from the alternator and headlamps.

Eric
Portland, Oregon


From: "BOBSMOPAR" <bobsmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: 68 head lights Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 17:45:15 -0400 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi all.
How hot should my head light switch get when using my lights.
Here is what I done to the car I have installed a new head light switch =
that I bought from car quest it is wired right D>2 told me how to wire =
it.
And it has worked great until now.
When I stop at a red light or just stop my voltage gauge drops below the =
center of the gauge and when I step on the gas to move it goes back to =
charging the battery.
Last night I blew a fuse that is on the back side of the switch and the =
switch was really hot.
Were would be the best place to look to fix this problem or does the =
switch get this hot just from the amount of voltage that goes thru it.
Thank you for any help that you can give me.
Bob
68 Imperial convertible



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