#7 Spark Plug Change

[roger crabtree <rcrabshish@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi gang,
Old mechanics trick for hard to reach plugs.  Get a
section of vacum or fuel line that is long enough to
reach the desired area.  Place the hose over the wire
end of the spark plug and you now have a flexible
spark plug starter.  Works great!  I use this process
on the old 460 furd pu. All of the back plugs on the
drivers side are the pits.  Remember don't force it!!
Oh, yeah a magnet tip in the end works for those hard
to reach bolts.  The best magnets are the small round
flat ones that look like a pen sold by the car quest. 
They have enough pull to start and thread a bolt most
the way in.
RC Billings, Montanaaaaa


  --- imperialsrus@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 
> The way I used to change the #7  plug on my 72 New
> Yorker was to use a 13/16 socket with a 7/8 HEX END
> that you could slip a box wrench over and "out comes
> the plug". Then of course you had to fanagle your
> fingers with the plug from underneath of the car to
> get it started, but you would tighten it up the same
> way. Craftsman or S-K Tools should carry a spark
> plug socket of this type.
> 
> 
> --
> Mike Veronesi 
> Member of the 
> Northeast Imperial Owners Club (N.E.I.O.C.) 
> imperialsrus@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > I, too, was present for the #7 plug change, done
> by the Lovely Leslie on her 
> > Haze Green car. While everyone was gathered 'round
> for this surgical 
> > operation, I could be heard muttering in the
> background, 'just lift the 
> > motor'. Did anyone listen? Well, they were under
> that car for a while. 
> > 
> > I have an Imperial-like, optional 440 in my '72
> Newport. In that the 
> > dimensions for the two cars differ in exactly this
> location of the #7 spark 
> > plug, with its 4'' ahead of firewall extension in
> the Imperials, I will 
> > offer the caveat that your actual procedure may
> vary. With that said, the #7 
> > plug in my otherwise very Imperial-like Newport is
> impossible to change 
> > either from on top or from under the car. My car
> has the Imperial-like, 
> > optional, tilt-telescope steering column and the
> heat insulator they use on 
> > those blocks the #7 plug. On my 1st attempt at
> changing #7, I ended up 
> > breaking the coupler by turning the steering wheel
> w/o the motor running and 
> > the coupler only partially attached, this after
> removing the heat insulator. 
> > 
> > A FWD GM driving 'acquaintance' of mine looked at
> the situation and said, 
> > 'just lift the motor'. Well, being a GM-head,
> maybe this is common practice 
> > for them.... anyhow, one left motor mount bolt
> removed, a couple of heaves 
> > on the hydraulic jack under the oil sump (w/block
> of wood, of course) and 
> > presto, easy access to #7. 
> > 
> > When I do plugs now, I haul out the socket that
> fits the motor mount bolt 
> > (this is the long, lower bolt that threads into
> the subframe) my jack and 
> > block of wood, and my thin walled spark plug
> socket. Simple procedure. End 
> > of story. 
> > 
> > Eric 
> > Portland, OR 
> > '63 Crown 4dr 
> > '72 Imperial-like Newport Custom sedan 
> > 
> > 
> > From: "Rob McCall" 
> > Subject: IML: Haze green plug change 
> > Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 22:50:12 -0400 
> > Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > I'm in need of a little Imperial guidance here.
> I've been working on my = 
> > '67 
> > Le Baron trying to get it back among the living
> after its 15 year coma. = 
> > The 
> > Holley that was on it was pouring gas better than
> a full service pump. = 
> > I've 
> > pulled the Holley and installed a spare Edelbrock
> I had here, but I need = 
> > to 
> > change the plugs. Is there a trick to removing the
> rearmost driver's = 
> > side 
> > plug? The steering column coupler is in the way. I
> also notice the = 
> > front 
> > passenger plug caused some clearance problems with
> my ratchet and the = 
> > upper 
> > control arm hardware. 
> > 
> > Any tips are greatly appreciated. 
> > 
> > As fodder for the Haze Green Era controversy,
> couldn't the '67-68's be 
> > referenced as the first generation unibody
> Imperial? 
> > 
> > Rob McCall 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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=====
RC Billings, Montanaaaaaa 

http://www.imperialclub.com/temp/1955/RogerCrabtree/ 


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