I would like to add that it may be better to retain the original size & shape of the end of the tube where it first goes into the block (that will make it a lot easier to get it started back in there). A better method might be to take a couple of small bolts, and with them and the end of the dipstick tube in a vise, - just "squeeze" the end that is supposed to be a tight fit in the block, - and just put a couple of small dents in it, - a short distance from the very tip, - that way the tube will only get "tight" in the block *after* it has been started into the hole. If necessary (just in case you get a little "carried away" using the vise), - you may have to go back and make the very end of the tube "round" again, - just don't "flare" it any. Works for me. Regards, DaveG. ----- Original Message ----- From: <GeoNort@xxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 7:00 PM Subject: Re: IML: Where's my dipstick? > Bill, > I'm not that familiar with your engine, But I have had that same problem with other cars I've owned. The tubes on those cars were just pressed in the hole. The fix i used was to carefully insert a tapered punch in the lower end of the dip-stick tube. Taking a light hammer driving the punch into the tube to flare it a bit. Then reinstalling it into the engine. > George > >