|
The car I got the rear axle off of is a complete rust
bucket, and the reason I am going to put this rear end in a NYB is that I need
to have it tow a 75 Imperial 2 door with a sun roof (restorable) about 500
miles so I can get started on this project – a custom 75 Imperial coupe. The rear end will have a rebuilt 3.21 Sure Grip with rebuilt
calipers, rebuilt parking brakes and linings, hoses and lines, and calipers
that are just over/under the minimum specs. This rear end is the result
of about a year of scrounging, $190 in new parts, and the donor car’s
shell. I have a rebuilt master cylinder and booster. I have
taken the proportioning valve from the original 75 Imperial, but I am wondering
if I really need it. From the research I have done, the volume of the
brake fluid in the cylinder is very important due to the fact that when disc
brake linings wear, more fluid is needed than when drum brake linings
wear. The rebuilt master cylinder and booster would solve this problem. The proportioning valve from the 75 Imperial is workable,
but the brake removal is a real pain, especially on the car receiving the
valve. My question is: Has anyone ever done this, and is the
proportioning valve critical to the effectiveness of the rear disc
brakes? I have thought of using an external proportioning valve because
all of the work can be done on the bench before I put it in the car. If I
have to do this, since this valve is only an adjustable restrictor, would I put
it on the front or rear brake line? Any help with this would certainly be appreciated. Thanks, Henry |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network