Bill,
You are getting soaked, no doubt. There was almost a
consensus from your first post that your actual symptoms were caused by poor
fuel delivery and possibly coolant issues. May I suggest you start with a
tune up. Your engine runs fine at idle and is neither blowing
smoke nor burning huge quantities of oil, if I recall correctly. The
new brake booster is replacing one that was full of holes and this may be
affecting the timing. See if it makes a difference. It always has
worked wonders for me. If necessary, get the carburetor rebuilt if the car
still isn't right. An engine coolant flush wouldn't hurt, either.
Where I live its advisable to get this procedure done every
year.
A rebuild is a wonderful thing but it is the solution to what
ails you? I have to say no because the engine is OK at idle. I have
had to replace a failed booster myself and a tune up made a significant
difference to how the engine ran after I got mine to stop leaking. I even
had to tune mine by ear as the marks on the harmonic balancer were impossible to
find with a timing light. I changed the plugs because it was so cheap to
do so. I think the distributor is far easier to reach on the 413 than it
is on the 392.
I think your car is starving for fuel at anything above idle
so a carburetor rebuild, or replacement, may be in your future. When
a car runs lean it runs hot. Run it rich for a while and see what
happens.
What reasons have you been given for rebuilding the
engine. Is it the valves or what? Was a compression test
performed? Are the rings bad, or what? The key thing to getting the
right answer is to ask the right question. There is a disconnect between
the solution you were given and your immediate problem. My 392 is
being rebuilt right now due to excessive oil consumption but it was running
pretty OK otherwise. I drove it to the shop and even in stop start traffic
it was not running hot or rough.
I don't know how confident you feel about your own abilities
to work on the car yourself. No one knows it better or cares more. I
pretty much rebuilt the top end of my engine myself and, trust me, if I could do
it so can you. Accessing the distributor on the 392 is a major pain
requiring an old shaped wrench and more dexterity than I normally possess, but I
have learned how to do it and have always achieved a good result. I tune
it like I would a radio. Get it to sound bad then get it to sound good,
then try it again at with more throttle. Listening, really listening, to
your engine is a marvelous experience. Learning how to do these things for
yourself is so beneficial. It decreases your dependency on mechanics who
really don't want to work on your car. It will hog up one of their bays
for days on end while a similar job on a more modern car with more readily
available parts will be in and out in hours.
A shop explained to me that this is why the quoted price for
working on my 58 was so high. It is their 'Go away with this
unprofitable, unfamiliar, difficult to find parts for, time consuming, hunk of
junk' price. Specialist shops with real mechanics cost a fortune and there
are a lot of people out there that are willing to pay these prices on their
collector car. The best solution is to learn how to do as much as possible
yourself. It adds an amazing dimension to the hobby. It decreases
your financial outlay and increases your satisfaction.
Hugh
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