This distance sounds a bit too low, but I may be wrong. I think you may be able to wind up the T-bars a bit more by removing the rear cross member anchor point. Then, by moving the suspension by hand, try to re-anchor the hex at the next flat. I will try to look at my FSM and see if its possible to remove the rear cross member without removing the T-bar from the front anchor point... D^2 Quoting BOBSMOPAR <bobsmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: > Hi All. > Thanks to all who have replied to my question. > Yes it is up on jack stands right now. > The pads that I call them is the part that the adjusting bolt hits to raze > the car and wind the t-bars. > I have not removed the bars yet I have only moved the adjusting bolts so > they are at the base of the threaded adjusters. > The 1/2 and 3/4 inches that I was talking about is the space between the > bolt adjuster and the pad that it goes up against to adjust the bars. > I did look in my book but it did not give a name for the pads it just shows > were they go when you put new bushings on . > I hope this makes my question a little easer to answer I am not to good with > giving a description on these computers I can do better when talking on the > phone or in person. > Thanks again for your help. > I only have until May19th to get the car road ready for the trip to O.C MD. > for a big car show. > Bob > 68 Imperial > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:55 AM > Subject: Re: IML: 68 t-bars > > > > Bob, I am not fully follow you. Did you remove the bolts completely from > the > > lower control arms? If yes, are you supporting the car with lack stands? > Or > > does the half and 3/4 of an inch refers to how much the bolt head sticks > out > > from the control arm at the current adjustment? > > > > > I was wondering if I need to remove the bars and move the pads to the > bolt > > > adjusters. > > > > I cannot follow this. What do you mean pads? What you may have to do is > remove > > the T-bars from the anchor points at the rear cross member, and move them > one > > full flat to wind them more if the car rides too low. I do not remember > the > > procedure to do this and what needs to come off, but it will be well laid > out > > in the FSM. I can look it up for you if you want later in the week, or if > > another member has a book handy, they can scan you the relevant pages... > > > > D^2 > > > > Quoting BOBSMOPAR <bobsmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: > > > > > Hi all 67&68 owners and list. > > > I went over to garage today and removed the adjusting bolts on the > t-bars. > > > On the left side I have an half inch between the adjusting bolt and the > pad > > > that it rest on to raze the car. > > > On the right side I have about three quarter of an inch. > > > Could this be my problem with bottoming out. > > > I was wondering if I need to remove the bars and move the pads to the > bolt > > > adjusters. > > > Thank you. > > > Bob > > > 68 Imperial > > > > > > > > > > > > >