Just a suggestion,
I have not seen this posted yet. When you go back
together with the drum put a thin layer of anti-seize
on the flat of the axle and the centering hub. Make
sure that it will not squeeze out of the drum. It is
not good for brake linings. This will stop future
rust problems of this nature and make the drum easier
to get off. It worked wonders on my 55. It had the
same problem the first time I removed the drums.
--- RandalPark@xxxxxxx wrote: > I have always managed
to get the drums off without
> heat. I have six cars with these axles, and had them
> all apart several times over the last 30 years. The
> keyword here is patience.
>
> One thing that I really liked about Sherwood's post
> was the idea of applying the pressure (assuming that
> you in fact are using the correct type of puller)
> and walking away from it for an hour or two. Not
> only does this give the puller time to do it's job,
> but it also keeps one from becoming over-zealous and
> damaging the car or themselves.
>
> Paul
>
> In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:46:14 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, jsadowski@xxxxxxx writes:
>
> > I agree that the torch is a no no. I know we've
> covered this subject to death before & this will be
> my only post regarding it. The puller needs to be
> the type that fastens to the studs on the drum. If
> you use the type that clamps to the outer edge, the
> drum will break apart from the hub rendering it
> useless.
> >
> > If you are going to use ANY heat at all, it
> needs to be only enough to swell the drum & not
> transfer any heat to the axle, or your wasting your
> time. Sufficient heat for this purpose is produced
> by a heat gun, a torch is too hot.
> > John
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: IML: '60 rear drums are stuck!
> Help...LeCrown has a death grip on its dr...
> >
> >
> > Sherwood is absolutely correct. Please be careful
> and use the axle nut as a safety on the axle so that
> when the drum does "POP" it won't fly off the car
> and hurt you! This can be very dangerous. There is
> no drum that will not come off, some just take
> longer and need more "pull". My mechanic friend and
> I cracked two hub pullers doing this job on my '56
> last September. We finally got it off with a bigger
> tool.
> >
> > I would highly advise against using a torch to
> heat the axles, and or the drums.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > In a message dated 1/27/2004 7:46:01 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, SherwoodK writes:
> >
> > > Group:
> > >
> > > I just had the same problem on a Mopar of the
> same vintage...
> > >
> > > You need a large puller. Put pressure on it by
> tightening the screw handle with a sledge. Hit the
> drum from the side all the way around. Tighten
> again. Hit the drum again all the way around.
> Tighten again. Leave like this for an hour. It will
> come loose. It's rusted to the shoes. Repeat until
> you get
> > > it to pop. Mine took two hours...
> > >
> > > Sherwood Kahlenberg
> >
> >
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