I am sorry to say that the access to the master cylinder on 1960 is just as bad
as other years. 1961 may be also, but 1962 was different.
Paul
In a message dated 12/21/2003 1:18:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hugtrees@xxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> Paul wrote, in response to Bill,:
>
>
> > I think the brake booster on the '59 Imperial is rather easy to remove.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> Bill wrote:
>
> Your idea of bringing it to a local brake shop, and
> > > then sending the unit out to Karps sounds very promising.
>
>
> I surmise that what is easy for some is not for others. We have different
> strengths and weaknesses. I agree with Paul as far as this - removing the
> booster is indeed quite easy. Taking the booster apart, having acquired a
> new exterior, and putting it back together is also not rocket science.
> However . . . this is really where the problem(s) begin.
>
> I went to the web site and checked out the 1960s. (Lovely cars, by the
> way.) I notice they have a better type of brake booster on them, hopefully
> one that will allow more reasonable access to the master cylinder. The
> problem with the 57/58/59 era is that accessing the master cylinder with a
> power bleeder is nigh on impossible. For routine maintenance, this is just
> a nettlesome quirk. However it really becomes a nightmare when it comes to
> bleeding the system when the master cylinder is being reinstalled. Someone,
> somewhere, out there has a power bleeder that was designed to fit the round,
> single pot, master cylinder that is situated bang right up close beneath the
> overhanging bellows unit. Unfortunately no one seems to know who this
> fortunate individual is.
>
> I have taken my car to brake shops that turned out to be unable to even
> remove the hubs on the rear wheels, because they lacked the requisite
> puller. I have had another which did the whole job. Almost. They could
> not bleed the brakes. I had to get a wrecker to get my 'almost' fixed car
> back to the museum. With air in the brake lines it was too unsafe to drive.
> I was a little beyond disgruntled about this, you may be sure. I have had
> more problems with the brakes on my 1958 than everything else put together.
> They have been a recurring problem. Rebuilt master cylinders have failed so
> frequently that I was obligated to upgrade to a more modern, twin pot style,
> if only because I no longer believe the single pot style can ever be said to
> be safe. My car was in an accident at 5 MPH when the brakes failed again.
> Regrettably, I ran into the back of a Dodge pick up. The difference in
> bumper height held to huge damage to the Imperial even though the pick up
> was virtually unscratched.
>
> With the new master cylinder, from a Dodge of the mid 1960s that still had
> all around drums, I was able to, at last, be able to power bleed my brakes,
> though it took a certain amount of ingenuity and determination to make it
> work.
>
> My point is that opinions with regard to how easy working on these brakes
> may or may not be don't add up to a hill of beans. With the 57/58/59
> Imperial, you are dealing with a designed in Achilles heel and you just have
> to do the best you can with what you have. Good luck finding a shop that
> will try to do it. Even more good luck in finding one that can actually do
> the job. I would find it impossible to criticize anyone who puts on a newer
> type of booster and a better master cylinder. I have not replaced my
> original style of booster out of a sheer pig headed desire to keep my car as
> original as possible.
>
> There is an odd element that I cannot help but remark on here. If you try
> my truck inner tube over the broken booster temporary repair, nothing has to
> be removed so you get working brakes for basically nothing, except the
> effort of installing the tube over the bellows unit. Under Bill's
> circumstances it is definitely the route I would take until a shop that will
> and can do the job is found. The shop will need the right equipment, and
> that is not going to be easy to find. If Karpps has gone to the trouble of
> recreating the rubber for the bellows unit and also does the installation,
> they would be the best people to tackle the job. A phone call to them will
> answer that question. Being as far away from them as Texas, taking my car
> to them was not an option.
>
> Hugh
>
>
>
>