Thanks to everyone who responded. One thing I left out is, my car is a relatively low mileage vehicle-- about 73k. So I'm doubtful it would need a front end rebuild . . . Also, the car doesn't really "wander" at highway speeds. (I define "wandering" as drifting from left to right without any input from the driver.) My car will stick to a straight line fine-- it's just that while you're holding that line you can move the wheel back & forth maybe 2-3 inches and not see much result. It's not bad, but my other '68 is a lot tighter, and so are other Imperials/Chryslers I've driven. I will check all the things mentioned, though. Thanks again, guys!! Mark Kenyon Wills wrote: > May I suggest jacking the car up, firmly jackstanding it, and being > underneath while an associate moves the wheel? Putting your hand on > items as the wheel is wiggled in the slop-zone may allow some > deduction. Wiggling the stering linkages by hand while you're under > there may expose some slop that would be hard to detect otherwise. Is > the slop in the box, in the linkages, or both? This will allow you to > narrow your attention, perhaps? Remember that the box has a limited > (usually generous) amount of adjustment, and when you get to the end > of the adjustment, you must rebuild or replace. This should be a once > in a lifetime thing, though, as those boxes are really robust. There > have been good suggestions all around, and a front-end rebuild might > do wonders for your car anyway, but there are many parts that make up > the whole that could contribute. If you pay somone else to do it, it > could run $600-$1,000 around where I live, but now that I've done the > 1960 that I'm rebuilding, it doesn't seem too scary anymore. Just > make certain that things are tightened properly and the cotter pins > done well if you chase it yourself. One item not mentioned, and I > don't know if your car has it (my 1960 does not, 73 does) is a small > rubber block with 4 bolt holes in it that goes between the steering > column and the box itself. It is a sort of u-joint in a way. These > can also get worn and should rereplaced any time that they are > suspect. Good luck! -Kenyon > > Mark McDonald <tomswift@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Hi folks, it's me again. :) > > Spring is here so I've got the '68 convertible out and I've > been driving > it around, and I've noticed that the steering is really > sloppy. By that > I mean it has a lot of play in it-- you can move the wheel a > lot before > you start to change directions. > > I've tried tightening up the little nut on the steering box, > and that > does seem to increase the resistance, or the strength > needed, to turn > the wheel, but does not take out the play. > > I am thinking I need a new steering box to really fix this > problem. > Opinions? > > Also, is there one brand that is better than others, in > terms of > rebuilds? (I assume you can't get a new one.) My local parts > house can > get me a rebuilt one by Cardone. > > Thanks, Mark > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com > ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. > Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxx alclub.com and your response > will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for > the > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.