Kenyo;
That's a good point you have there, I forgot that a wire wheel solved your
problem, it has with several problems of mine. It just goes to show why they
sell gasket scrapers in the auto parts stores and why they tell you to
thoroughly clean both surfaces before installing a new gasket. How about my
suggestion of a 383 manifold on a 440, will it work?
Best Regards
Arran Foster
1954 Imperial Newport
I will send pictures of you know what.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenyon wills" <imperialist60@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: IML: exhaust manifold for a 66 imperial
> I had a similar problem with my 73, but with the head to manifold
> surfaces.
>
> The machine shop recoiled in horror at my cast iron ex. manifold, claiming
> that cast iron eats the machine tools up and that "nobody local does them
> anymore". Whatever. I stopped shopping after the first guy told me that
> and rethought my problem.
>
> I then re-innspected my setup and determined that there was petrified crud
> on the block. I used a die-grinder with a small 3" wire wheel to
> completely dress both surfaces (manifold and the surface that it mates to)
> and removed all traces of previous gasket materials. I then replaced all
> nuts as well - the originals were pretty rough & rusty and more prone to
> rounding. The studs got wire-wheeled in the cleaning process, and I think
> that the threads were happier as a result.
>
> The new gaskets had been riding high on one section of old gasket and
> blowing around it as a consequence after some useage. Zero problems since
> this, and NO machining was required. Could be that the cast iron is
> hearty enough that it comes out of plane less than the machine
> shops/common sense might claim? Try holding your manifold up to a
> straight-edge AFTER aggressively wire wheeling it before concluding that
> it is bad would be my suggestion.
>
> If you have not done this already, you may be able to reduce your costs to
> a wire wheel and some quality time in your engine compartment. The
> die-grinder may fit better than a power drill.
>
>
>
>
> --- "A. Foster" <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Dave;
> > Remove that exhaust manifold from the engine and take it to a machine
> > shop, they should be able to plane that mating surface flat again.
> > Alternatively you could double up on the gaskets, or use a thicker one,
> > between the pipe and the manifold; but I am not sure how long that would
> > work. Another alternative would be to grab a manifold off of a 383, I
> > could be wrong but I believe that they are interchangeable with the 440
> > ones and 383's are easy to find.
> > Best Regards
> > Arran Foster
> > 1954 Imperial Newport
> > Needing A Left Side Taillight Bezel and other trim parts.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dodd, David J
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 8:50 AM
> > Subject: IML: exhaust manifold for a 66 imperial
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have a passenger side exhaust manifold for a 66 Imperial
> > 440? I got a leak where it hooks up to the pipe and keeps burning
> > through exhaust gaskets.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > dave
> >
>
>
> =====
> Kenyon Wills
> San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area
>
> 196o Imperial LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
> http://www.imperialclub.com/YearbyYear/1960/Kenyon/Page01.htm
> 1973 Imperial LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
> http://www.imperialclub.com/YearbyYear/1973/wills/
>
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