In my experience, there is no need to run the engine and this might very
well have been your error. Do it like any other car. With the engine off,
start at the wheel farthest from the brake master cylinder and bleed them as
you normally would. The rotation would go:
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front
I had to bleed mine after doing a complete brake overhaul and I was also
worried because of the way the pedal felt. It corrected itself in time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan.Williams@xxxxxxxxx" <allan.williams@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 7:37 AM
Subject: IML: 90 Anti-lock Brakes
I am looking for suggestions on brake bleeding for the 90 IMP with
anti-lock. I am installing new brake all way round and bleeding the
system before taking the car into the dealer for possible recall problems.
I want to make sure that I have tried all the simple things first. The
problem is that the brake light and anti-lock lights come on when pressing
the pedal. The pump runs for a second and the light go out. Sometimes
during long trips it work flawlessly. The overall problem is that the car
fail VA inspection because of the lights and the fact that the pedal will go
to the floor if pressed hard enough before the pump kicks in. The pedal
to me feels spongy and I'm thinking that bleeding the brake will suffice. I
bled them earlier this week with the car running (and my 10 year old at
the wheel). The rear brakes had some air in them but since the anti-lock
pump kicks in the system only sends a spurt on fluid (under pressure).
After bleeding all 4 wheels the system has not improved. I am
wondering is its because of the procedure that I used (car running). I
bought a Haynes manual last night and it was disappointing in its lack of
information on bleeding anti-lock (pretty much says go to dealer). I
noticed a bleeder screw at the brake res. and I didn't notice any air there.
Any suggestions?
thanks
Allan
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