Larry,
Here's what I found:
Previous Owner replaced calipers and pads, Master cylinder. No brake lites.
When I got the car the front brakes(and possibly rear brakes) would not fully
release. On inspection I found that diconnecting the master all pressure was
releived from at least the front brakes(and by deduction the rear brakes also)
and the car would roll effortlessly.I adjusted the pushrod between the master
and
the booster and now there is only a little deag on the front brakes but if I
lift
the brake pedal UP with my foot there is a sensed and heard release of something
in the brake pedal mechanism and the front wheels spin freely(on a jack stand).
The brake light switch was found disconnected and when electrically reconnected
the brake lites stay on till I lift the brake pedal UP again with my foot. It
seems the PO had some brake problems and could not resolve them(ran out of money
throwing parts at it??) so I bought the car as is-poor/useless brakes. So- how
do
I determine what the correct fix is?
How do I determine what the proper brake pedal position is?
How do I fix the partially engaged brake problem is?
Is one going to solve the other?(I hope)
Your help is greatly appreciated
Don Savard
mullic5@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi Don; Yes there is an adjustment to solve the problem you described. On
> most cars the rod from the brake pedal to the booster (it goes through the
> firewall) is adjustable. Some cars also have an adjustable rod between the
> booster & mastercylinder. There should be a little freeplay when the pedal is
> all the way up. If these adjustments don't work, you may have some mismatched
> parts. I have seen the wrong mastercylinder mounted to a correct booster and
> the wrong rod at the pedal.
> Larry
> 67 Crown 4DRHT.
> 67 CROWN COUPE X2
>
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