Here's a reposting of my Fuselage trans mount replacement tip:
I recently discovered my transmission mount on my 72 Lebaron was torn to
shreds, the vibration in the driveline was a dead giveaway, Having already
used a polyurethane insert on one of my "lesser" Chrysler products, I
decided to give this a try on my Lebaron,since the mount on my Imp looks
exactly like the one in my Charger, I figured there was a good chance it
would fit, I was right, it fit like it was made for it, vibration is GONE!
It's an easy fix, and cheap at $14.95 here's the link:
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/tranmoun1.html
It's part number ENE5-1101G listed for 71 and up a,b,e bodies, but it
does fit the IMPERIALS !
You have to re-use the metal shell of your original mount and press in the
two halves of the new one,then slide the steel tube through both
halves,despite what the instructions say, the best way to remove the old
rubber is to set it on fire with a propane torch and toss it out in the
driveway, it will burn for almost an hour, when it goes out, a little wire
brushing is all that is needed to clean it up ( I used a small wire brush in
my die grinder)then both halves and the tube press in by hand-really a slick
little item. I hope this helps someone else who has this problem and if this
info has already been posted this to the IML, please
ignore this post.
Chris,
72 Lebaron, now minus the annoying vibration
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenyon wills" <imperialist60@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "IML" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 10:03 PM
Subject: IML: 1973 and me this last weekend
> I have been having minor frustration with my 73 since I got it in that it
> just seems determined to develop exhaust leaks on the DS exhaust manifold.
>
>
> I nailed it once with a new gasket where the pipe meets the exhaust
> manifold. That worked for 4 weeks, and I hardly drove the car! Another
> gasket lasted a week.
>
> I then replaced the nuts, greased the threads after cleaning them, and
> installed new lock-washers and really went after it with a long-handled
> wrench.
>
> That took care of that, but the thing started leaking between the block
> and the manifold after I'd replaced that gasket already, too.
>
> I got really tired of it and took off the manifold completely with the
> plan of letting my machinist talk to it about being flat and smooth on the
> mating surfaces.
>
> Apparently, machinists don't like cast-iron manifolds, because all three
> shops that I went to made crucifixes with their fingers at my part and
> told me that those parts ruin machine tools. One guy was impressed that I
> had a 440 manifold with EGR tubes in it (apparently most do not) and
> pointed out that he'd have to remove those to do anything mentionednd
> montioned lots of money being involved.
>
> Being a cheapskate has its plusses and minuses. In this case, it helped,
> because I decided that I was going to go home and teach it what's what. I
> clamped it into my vise and used my 10,000 RPM grinder with 6" braided
> wire wheel on it, and removed several layers of petrified gasket material.
> The exhaust leak had fried the valve cover several times over, and oil
> had been soaking into the various gaskets from the roasted valve cover
> gasket (the leak pointed straight at it), making everything black and all
> just one big carbon and oil mess.
>
> The wire wheel went straight down to bare metal and a straight edge proved
> that the thing appeared true and flat. I then did this to the exhaust
> outlet on the manifold with similar results.
>
> I then took the die grinder (air tool) with a 3" wire wheel and cleaned
> all the threads and the head surfaces, leaving shiny smooth metal
> everywhere.
>
> Lastly, I replaced the rotten, rusted nuts with new ones and lock washers.
>
>
> New gaskets, serious leverage to tighten everything, and a few choice
> words, and Voila! No more leak. This reminded me that I should stop
> being a dependent sissy and work on things harder before giving up and
> tossing them to "experts" for $90 an hour.
>
> Now that I had the exhaust licked, I addressed my car's timing. I'd had
> it tuned by someone that I trust a year ago, but was always hard to start.
> The car required multiple pumps on the pedal and 3-4 turns before it
> caught. It also tended to "diesel" after the ignition was turned off,
> coughing, spitting, and sputtering.
>
> I kept having a hard time with the socket wrench with a long extension or
> the box wrench on the distributor bolt that's down there in the confined
> space under vacuumir cleaner and all the vauum tubing, and went to the
> local tool-palace to see what could be done. They promptly showed me a
> "distributor wrench", and I bought it immediately. If you don't have one,
> check it out before trying to tighten/loosen your distributor. It's a rod
> with a wrencharoundon the end that's bent to wrap arond the funny shape
> that the distributor is in its vertical plane, and the wrench was just
> like magic!
>
> It turns out that the car had been filled with unleaded regular in it (by
> me) when it was tuned, as this is what the previous owner had said worked
> fine. I'm a cheapskate, so what the heck, I bought cheap gas. The
> mechanic had consequently advanced the timing far enough to stop all
> pinging (caused by the cheapskate gas). It turns out that he had it
> REALLY advanced, because the car died when I advanced it just a hair more
> by mistake, and this should not happen.
>
> I filled the car with 91 octane gas and then tried fiddling with the
> timing, and was able to pull the timing waaaay back, settling the car into
> a smooth idle, and making it feel right for the first time since I got the
> car 3500 miles ago.
>
> It now starts, usually without even choke, stops without idling on, and
> has increased power and smoothness.
>
> Moral of the story: Take your car in with "super" gas if you get it
> tuned. If your car diesels after shutdown, this is possibly an indication
> of too-far advanced timing. They make distributor wrenches that work
> really well, and not everyone may be aware of them. Worth the money to
> buy one, says I.
>
> This was dieseling condition was asked about here on the IML by someone
> else, and the only answer offered was to shut the car off in gear to put
> so much drag on the engine that it couldn't continue to detonate without
> the ignition on.
>
> -----
>
> What's left?
>
> I need to keep looking for a cheapskate way around the $250 they want to
> rebuild my idler arm (steering). These things are just not available
> locally (anywhere?) and I have to send mine out for a rebuild, according
> to the local parts-shop gentry. Any leads would be appreciated.
>
> I'm looking for a really nice rear bumper, but they all seem to be
> somewhere besides California. Please keep an eye out for one with good
> chrome that's "around".
>
> Also, when the car is shifted to reverse with a foot on the brake, it
> makes a rhythmic knocking sound. It has just started to do this in
> forward at rest with the brake, and there is harsh driveline vibration
> (perhaps unrelated) drive-shaft 90MPH.
>
> I'm suspecting that it is either a driveshaft in need of balancing and new
> joints, or I have a bad set of trans/motor mounts. The engine tends to
> move around a bit at idle, so I'm planning to dive under the caappreciate
> around.
>
> Been there already and have a tip? I'd appreicate whatever you already
> know on this portion of my challenge.
>
>
> =====
> Kenyon Wills
> 6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
> 73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
>
> San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area
>
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