This is the latest on my Imperial work.
Yesterday, I decided I had to get the old rack and the axles out of the car
and ready to exchange for the new. As I've said, the left axle came out
without a problem. The rack, I managed to get it taken out also. I had to
heat the U-joint part on the spline shaft on the rack to get it free but it
came right off with some heat. The right drive shaft remained a problem. It
still does, but not mine. You see, I removed the extension shaft with the
axle and I will simply take it to my mechanic and have him deal with it.
I also removed the "A" arms from the "K" frame so I could take them to the
mechanic to have new ball joints installed into them. Removing the "A" arms
wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need to access that nut inside that
little hole after all because Chrysler, in their wisdom, fitted the nut with
a sort of metal tab to keep it from turning. The location of the bolt head
meant I couldn't use my impact wrench though so I was reduced to my swing
bar and 1/2" ratchet. (ahhh the good old days!)
I washed everything up nice and I now have two drive axles and two "A" arms
in the trunk of my OTHER car, ready for my mechanic. (well, he'll only see
one of those axles)
Yesterday, I returned the old rack to the parts store for core credit and
picked up the tie rod ends and a set of brake linings for the rear of my
daily driver (1978 Chrysler Newport). I found it interesting that while the
boxes that the two tie rod ends came in were identical, the tie rod ends
were not. I compared them for dimentional consistency and they are
functionally the same but one is noticably larger than the other.
When I returned home, I proceeded to install the new rack into the car. I've
detailed how I did that on my web page at:
http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/90Imperial/Repairs/index.htm#steeringrack
I was even able to get some pics of the process. It sure it alot easier to
do these projects when you do a bunch of stuff at once. What I mean is,
replacing the drive axles, replacing the rack/brakes/ball joints/tie rod
ends/ etc all in one big project is so much easier because most of the same
stuff has to come apart to do it. Now, if it only weren't for the expense!
Brad Hogg
Winnipeg, Manitoba
http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/index.htm
1990 Chrysler Imperial 4-door Sedan (the KImperial)
1978 Chrysler Newport 4-door Hard Top (the Newporker)
1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham 4-door Hard Top (the Black Beast)
1968 Chrysler Newport Custom 4-door Sedan (Grand-Dad's car)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Hogg" <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Front End Work
> This car does have the equal length axles. I've pulled and pryed and I
> can't get the right one to come free. The right axle actually goes into a
> half-shaft rather than directly into the transaxle. My Haynes manual is
not
> very detailed and often has information that chearly does not apply to my
> car.
>
> I had no trouble with dropping the K frame down and loosetening the sway
bar
> etc either. I want to remove the lower control arms though so I can have
my
> mechanic press new ball joints into them at this point. Those control
arms
> bolt on is an unusual way. The one bolt comes out fine but the other, the
> access hole is too small to get a socket in over the nut...I mean it is
JUST
> too small. Why wouldn't Chrysler make that hole a hair larger so you
could
> get a socket in there??
>
> My projects for today are:
>
> 1. Remove remains of right drive shaft from car.
> 2. Remove U-joint from old rack.
> 3. Go to parts store and get new drive shafts, tie rod ends, ball joints
and
> a power steering return hose.
>
> I should then be all set to re-assemble this thing.
>
> (Insert work on the Imperial here)
>
> Finally, in frustration, I removed the "half-shaft" that extends from the
> transaxle to the right drive shaft, along with the drive shaft. Actually,
> the only part of the right drive shaft that is attached to the half shaft
is
> the inner portion of the inner joint. The rest of the shaft came off
> easily. What I am now trying to accomplish is to remove the rest of the
> right drive shaft from the half shaft. I have pounded on it quite a bit
and
> even though I am sure I have moved it, it just isn't happening. I am
afraid
> I'll damage it so they won't take it in return and that will cost me
> $125.00. I am thinking I'll just take it to my mechanic and have him
remove
> it as he has the tools to do it.
>
> I got that U-joint off the spline. I used my small propane torch to heat
it
> up and then a few solid whacks with my 32oz hammer it came right off. I'm
> glad it's keyed so I am sure to get the steering wheel centred again when
I
> reassemble it. I bought the tie rod ends today so I have everything I
> should need to reinstall the new rack. I was going to replace the power
> steering return hose also but the parts guy said it wasn't listed and that
> the parts book recommends just using a regular piece of hose. I guess
I'll
> go with the one that is already on the car and hope it doesn't ever leak,
I
> don't want to do this job again!
>
> What I am wondering is, since I intend to remove the lower control arms
from
> the cross member "K" frame so I can have my mechanic press new ball joints
> into them, is it going to be a P.I.T.A. to reinstall the lower control
arms
> AFTER I reinstall the "K" frame into the car? If not, I'll go ahead and
> finish the rack job and do the ball joints and drive shafts in a week or
so.
> I have to wait to buy the drive shafts and ball joints anyway, because I
> have run out of cash until payday next friday.
>
> So, the plan now is...
> 1. Install the new rack and K frame.
> 2. Take the right drive axle and the lower control arms to my mechanic
this
> week so he can separate the axle and install the new ball joints.
> 3. Next Friday after work, pick up the separated drive shaft and the lower
> control arms from the mechanic.
> 4. Next weekend, buy the drive axles and install them.
> 5. Install the lower control arms.
> 6. Install the new brake rotors and linings in the front.
> 7. Next weekend, go to salvage yard and look for various front and rear
> brake parts that need replacing. (I'll detail that project in another
> thread)
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