I've just arrived home from a very long and tiring 2500 km drive from Vancouver, British Columbia to Winnipeg, Manitoba, in my 1976 NYB. I say tiring mainly because that car has something terribly wrong with the alignment. It was a challenge to keep it going in a straight line at times. That's just one more thing to fix. I won't be addressing that for a while though. What I will be doing first is to take the dash apart completely and clean up all the electrical contacts in there. From what I have seen of this car, it is almost like it has been under water at one point. EVERYTHING has surface rust. Even the tilt steering lever and turn signal stock are rust pitted. I guess the fact that the sun roof leaks would account for this though. I will also be taking all the seats and carpet out so I can do rust inspection/repair/prevention under there. Otherwise, I'd take it to my mechanic and tell him to fix it enough to pass a safety inspection so I can get a plate on it. Thanks for all the tips on the electrical. I am aware of most of that. I just wondered if anyone would recognise some patterns and say, "Hey! That sounds like a bad grapple grommet!" I can fix it all. Electrical is my forte really. One challenge I WILL have though is that the left rear door doesn't open nor will the window go down. I think the lock is stuck down. I can feel the power lock solenoid trying to open it but it won't happen. I can't get the door panel off with the door closed though. Anyone ever done that before? Brad Hogg Winnipeg, Manitoba http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/index.htm 1978 Chrysler Newport 4-door Hard Top 1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham 4-door Hard Top 1976 Chrysler Town & Country 9 Passenger Station Wagon <--parts 1968 Chrysler Newport Custom 4-door Sedan