Engine appearance care for the do-it-yerselfer (was: This group is great!)

["Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>]

 You can't do a good job of cleaning an engine without taking some parts
off.   For one thing, you must avoid getting any water or solvent in the
distributor, and if you just start spraying around in there, you'll cause
yourself problems.

I think your best bet it is to take it to your local carwash outfit and ask
them to "detail" the engine for you.  This won't restore the peeling decals
or tired paint, but it will make it look MUCH better, and then you can buy
the right paint from the auto parts store and with a little careful masking,
you can make it look almost new.  You'll need the right engine color (ask
someone else, I'm color blind - but it looks like Teal to me), plus gloss
and semi-gloss black paint, and rattle cans work just fine.  As for the
decals, they are out there, check the IML vendor list, or contact Year -
One.   The pie plate on the top of your air cleaner is a tough one, if yours
is at all savable, try to clean it up carefully while preserving the decal.
You might be able to make it look pretty good, and then spray clear Krylon
over it (available at your local Home Depot).    Your hoses and other rubber
parts will look much better if you rub them with some lacquer thinner soaked
into a cloth - but be careful with this stuff, it eats paint!  And don't
inhale this stuff, it is a cheap high, but it isn't good for you!  Stop
short of removing the writing on the hoses.

Lacquer thinner also does a good job on wiring, it will restore much of the
faded colors on the wires.  Remove your battery and clean the white residue
from the tray, then wire brush the rusty areas down to bare metal, then
paint it with Rust-Oleum gloss black enamel (also from your friendly local
Home Depot) - use brush type enamel, to avoid getting overspray on nearby
items.  Wash your battery with "Joy", water and a brush (out of the car)
until it looks new and shiny, and after you re-install it, put a light film
of Vaseline on the cable ends and post tops to keep the crud from
re-forming.

The underhood pad is probably ready to turn to dust.  You can try vacuuming
it gently, but don't get carried away or it will rain down all over your
nice clean engine.  If you are going to remove and replace it (they are
available, see the IML archives for sources), spread a tarp or something
over the engine and fenders before you touch it.

Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: <DKSweetD@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: IML: this group is great !!


> When i joined this group  just this past week.  i figured that once i got
to
> know a few of  you ppl i would post the few parts that i am looking for
and
> with alot of luck might find what i am looking for.  Gee was i in for a
> surpise.  I have learned more in this past week about imperials. engines.
> rust, wiring.  etc.  that i have found myself so interested in "learning"
> that i haven't even found the time to discuss what i'm looking for.
> Since i am new to the group.  just wanted to say that i didn't have any
idea
> how much i "didn't know" about my car untill this past week.  I feel
really
> stupid. in this catagory anyway LOL.
> I own a 1966 Imperial LaBaron which is almost completely orgianal cept for
> the paint on the trunk...I have entered 4 car shows in this past week in
> michigan and have won 7 trophies.  but i am ashamed to show the engine.
it
> is not filthy.  actually it is quite clean  although the paint is sort of
> worn off and the imperail decals are starting to peel.  I have never
cleaned
> a engine before but i would like to find out how to clean it without
haveing
> to take anything off of it.   I'm not really good with putting engines
back
> together. and where would i find the decals that go back on it.  Remember
I
> probley sound really dumb but thats cause at this pointe i am
>
> donna
> michigan
> 1966 imperial labaron
>