> it has the original aquamarine paintjob which is > F-4 by factory specs. Please define what you mean by "factory specs", as the build sheet and fender tag are the factory specs. If you are trying to match it against color chips, it's very likely that it has faded or that the color chips weren't correct in 1969 (typical). >However, the frame tag and original factory >broadcast sheet specify Platinum >Mettalic, A-4. Be sure that your VIN matches the tag & broadcast sheet. I don't have any color charts in front of me, but Chrysler paint codes from that era usually work like this: The letter indicates the color, while the number indicates the intensity, for example... B3 is a light blue. B5 is a medium blue. B7 is a dark blue. Black is X9, White is W1. There are some deviations, such as Y2 is light yellow, Y5 is bright yellow, Y8 is metallic gold. I have found all aquamarine-type colors begining with "Q", and greens beginning with "F". >My question is...does this in any way affect the >value of the vehicle? Also, >should I re-paint? The quality of the repaint will have more impact than the color you choose (Provided you stay within what was available for that year/model.) Imperials haven't attained the numbers-match-mania that is a part of the Corvette/MuscleCar crowd. I suppose that's both a good & bad thing. Carmine F. -- __________________________________________________________ Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup Save up to $160 by signing up for NetZero Platinum Internet service. http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=N2P0602NEP8