I have also done some brazing on cast iron, in my case on bell housings. I found it necessary to preheat the casting to 500 degrees in the oven, to prevent spreading the crack further as I began to braze. I also drilled a round hole just beyond the end of the crack to stop the travel of the crack. I did this in 1967 on a car that I am still driving - it's still holding fine, almost 150,000 miles later. Dick Benjamin ----- Original Message ----- From: <gimpineer@xxxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 6:27 AM Subject: Re: IML: re: exhaust manifold > > It may not be acceptable for keeping a car "pure", but for a practical > repair, it is easy to braze. The brass really shows up against the cast > iron. > > I have done extensive brazing on cast iron manifolds with good results. > It can be done with a wire brush (to clean surface) an acetylene torch, > brazing rod and flux. It is really quite easy and doesn't require any > particular skill. I have done it to fabricate cheepo headers. > > I don't know how it will hold up in a really hot manifold but I never had > a failure on MOPAR, GM and Renault in-line engines. > > I also split the manifold and brazed in a flange to make dual exhausts > for my '38 Imperial straight eight. As a High School Kid, I didn't care > about originality, but it sure sounded good with 2 1/2" pipes and > glasspacks. > > 4 - Toes > > On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:59:58 -0600 (CST) dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes: > > Can't these be welded as well? Cast iron is not easy to weld, but I > > would > > think that its possible, and it may be cheaper. Any suggestions? > > > > D^2 > > > > Quoting JOEHOLSOM@xxxxxxx: > > > > > My 65 convertible has developed an exhaust leak. I thought I would > > be > > > able to > > > get by cheaply and replace the gasket between the manifold and the > > > exhaust > > > pipe. > >