re: exhaust manifold
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re: exhaust manifold



I have also done some brazing on cast iron, in my case on bell housings.  I
found it necessary to preheat the casting to 500 degrees in the oven, to
prevent spreading the crack further as I began to braze.  I also drilled a
round hole just beyond the end of the crack to stop the travel of the crack.
I did this in 1967 on a car that I am still driving - it's still holding
fine, almost 150,000 miles later.

Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: <gimpineer@xxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: IML: re: exhaust manifold


>
> It may not be acceptable for keeping a car "pure", but for a practical
> repair, it is easy to braze.  The brass really shows up against the cast
> iron.
>
> I have done extensive brazing on cast iron manifolds with good results.
> It can be done with a wire brush (to clean surface) an acetylene torch,
> brazing rod and flux.  It is really quite easy and doesn't require any
> particular skill. I have done it to fabricate cheepo headers.
>
> I don't know how it will hold up in a really hot manifold but I never had
> a failure on MOPAR, GM and Renault in-line engines.
>
> I also split the manifold and brazed in a flange to make dual exhausts
> for my '38 Imperial straight eight.  As a High School Kid, I didn't care
> about originality, but it sure sounded good with 2 1/2" pipes and
> glasspacks.
>
> 4 - Toes
>
> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:59:58 -0600 (CST) dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> > Can't these be welded as well?  Cast iron is not easy to weld, but I
> > would
> > think that its possible, and it may be cheaper.  Any suggestions?
> >
> > D^2
> >
> > Quoting JOEHOLSOM@xxxxxxx:
> >
> > > My 65 convertible has developed an exhaust leak. I thought I would
> > be
> > > able to
> > > get by cheaply and replace the gasket between the manifold and the
> > > exhaust
> > > pipe.
>
>


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