'67 gas tank stuck
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'67 gas tank stuck



I'd like to recommend one of two products I've used with great success in 
loosening rusted fasteners:  "Kroil" by KANO LABORATORIES, and "SP-100" by 
PROLONG.  I've found the first at supply houses servicing industrial accounts 
and the second at NAPA.  Soak'em overnight.  Begin the next day by TIGHTENING 
them just a few turns and hitting the threads above and below the fastener 
with a wire brush.  Once it seems to begin to move, I'd apply a little 
chassis grease to the threads so that it'll work its way into the fastener  
as you loosen it the rest of the way. Don't cut the retaining strap(s) unless 
rusted through, as they'll clean-up pretty well.  I'd make that decision 
based on whether the strap edges have rusted "inwards" towards the center by 
one eighth the distance to strap center. I like to use a wire wheel at low 
rpm to see if the metal isn't all the way gone, but, if need be someone could 
probably make some new, (I'd try for a SW US salvage yard pair to be sure of 
fit).  (Believe YEAR ONE or other has this peculiar fastener; maybe even 
MOPAR).  As to the pickup being clogged, (replacements for this "sock" filter 
include the above), I'd try cleaning it as much as possible and experimenting 
to see if it will work.  Otherwise, there are rebuild services I've seen 
advertised, @$120.00 or so. Also a good idea to have the tank refurbished, 
as, the system needs attention all-at-one-time, not piecemeal. I would also 
expect the fuel lines going forward to be a problem, that is to say:  there 
is no way I'd put a refurbished tank/pickup back on without replacing the 
lines to the fuel pump and carburetor. INLINE TUBE and others keep the 
patterns available, both in OEM steel and stainless; prebent, with armor and 
clips as per factory.  Replace all soft lines with EFI-rated hose and use 
stainless steel worm drive clamps; (all available from NAPA).  Don't forget 
the vent line (hard and soft pieces) at the tank forward end. Consider that 
the fuel pump is also best replaced with an equivalent CARTER piece and I'd 
give the carb a minor overhaul as well (gaskets, passages clean; leave choke 
well enough alone).  I realize that this is an awful lot of advice, but fuel 
problems are often not easy to diagnose, one tends to think of ignition 
problems, etc, and it becomes frustratingly confusing.  On the other hand, if 
one knows the fuel system is functionally "new" this alleviates more than one 
potential headache.  Remember that no modern EFI system would EVER continue 
to function with the problems on top of problems your system currently has, 
and, once made new (and kept to a minimum maintenance standard; i.e., have a 
drain plug installed in the tank; drain annually; use gasoline preservatives 
during periods of inactivity [best is a couple gallons of VP Racing Fuel ]), 
will remain that way another quarter-century plus. Good luck



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