Re: IML: Re using starter

["Melissa Swenson" <emswenson@xxxxxxx>]

This reminds me of an experience I had once while helping a friend change
his timing chain. We could not budge that lousy damper bolt by hand so we
resorted to using the starter motor. Every time my friend would bump the
starter, the entire front end of the car almost came clear off the ground!
Had I not witnessed this myself, I would not have believed it. The car moved
over each time and came within inches of his garage wall. It did finally
break loose. This was not a Chrysler product. Although rare, every big-block
Chrysler engine that has failed, in my experience, was due to spun/seized
bearings. These were all high-mileage, poorly maintained engines that were
being subjected to harsh treatment at the time. More than likely, chunks of
old valve seal material in the oil pick-up screen is partly to blame. For a
stock rebuild, the stock oil pump should be fine. It would not hurt to use a
high-volume pump though. When I fire up my '65 Crown, the oil gauge goes
directly to the middle under fast idle conditions and settles down to just
above the "safe" line when warm. I think I put 10W-30 in it last time. This
summer I may use HD diesel or motorcycle 15W-40 to save on cam/lifter wear.
The odometer has said these numbers since I bought it almost five years ago;
94,398. If I had to guess, it probably has 100 to 120,000 on it and it is
original and untouched. Some day, when I refurbish the engine, I will use
fully-grooved, tri-metal bearings with the Mopar Performance HP oil pump and
a windage tray in the oil pan. "She's real mean, my 413!"

Eric
65 Crown, below 0 in MN!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael wolf" <flowekim@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Re using starter


> Hi group
>
> Lot of good advice on the pulley bolt, all items
> mentioned work and the MANY I have removed have almost
> all been with the starter method. I am thankfull to
> who ever suggested the rubber band over the head of
> the bolt to hold in place the socket, USAF, I will try
> it on the next one. Holding the socket on, for me, is
> by thin double sided tape across head then socket
> tapped onto the bolt and it "shims" it on tight. I
> also go a step farther by slipping a length of heater
> hose on the end breaker bar to guide/hold the breaker
> from jumping, one time I did smack a radiator.
> The only time this trick did not work out for me was
> on the "flat 8" in my 37 and that did twist the "hand
> crank" type notched bolt off the crank so downfalls do
> happen but with a little thought and patience it will
> come loose. I was never too worried about the teeth as
> have had seized engines wipe out starters long before
> breaking teeth but it is food for thought.
> Mike
>
> --- Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Tony,
> >
> > How do you make sure that the socket will stay on
> > the head of the bolt then?
> > Seems to me that it can easily slipp off that way!
> > When it rests ont the chassis rail you can sort of
> > "lock it"  in place, you see?
> > But that said, avoiding strain to the ring gear
> > teeth makes also a lot of sense!!
> >
> > Robert
> >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   From: Tony Carter
> >   To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >   Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:30 PM
> >   Subject: IML: Re using starter
> >
> >
> >   If you are going to use the strater to unlock the
> > crank bolt, don't rest the breaker bar on the
> > chassis rail but position the bar about 2 to 3
> > inches above it, when you turn the key the bar will
> > hit the chassis rail and "crack" the bolt easily, as
> > it has built up momentum, this avoids strain on the
> > ring gear teeth and/or starter drive, "been there,
> > done that" many times without any problems,  just
> > make sure the coil is disconnected.
> >   Tony C. Oz-tralia
>
>
>
>
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