RE: IML:66 Drum Brake Issue

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

Jack said something about leading/trailing shoes being
reversed.  This booklet addresses that nicely and I
think it's pertinent to YOUR system:


http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/204/index.htm

ALSO:

Each wheel has an "automatic adjuster".

This is the threaded cylinder at the bottom.
These cylinders get wire-wheeled clean on my cars,
then the threads lubricated and re-assembled so that I
am certain that they function and are not seized.

So:  presuming that this was done and therefore the
mechanisms are not binding....

You should be able to put the car in reverse and
repeatedly stamp the brakes.  High speed not required,
just do as you would backing out of a driveway, but
repeatedly for 6-8 times.  

Doing this will actuate the aircraft-wire connectors
and spin the star wheels, flaring the drums outward as
the threaded shaft expands the shoes.  

This actuates the self adjusting mechanism every time
you put the car in reverse and stop it's rearward
motion, both now after assy and in general use.

An ingenious design.

Make certain that these adjusting cables are installed
and doing their job on all four corners.


You've now done this procedure, are confident that all
4 corners are snugly and correctly adjusted, the pedal
feels firm, and you're confident that there is no air
in the lines.  

You're also certain that all 4 corners are assembled
correctly for leading and trailing shoes?  

Double check your assemblies.  

I had a mis-aligned cylinder-to-shoe pin that yeilded
exactly the same symptom, and I checked everything
else first, since I was under the wrong assumption
that all was well in the portions that I'd already
done.

Once you rule all of that other stuff out, then YES,
I'd definitely go with 4 shoes shod with the same
material.  I don't want to know, but why in the world
would you choose to put shoes with different friction
material on?  Seems like that's an awfully loose thing
in the equation.

One way to test this that will soak up billed hourly
time is to move the shoes to a different wheel and see
if the problem follows them.



Sorry to hear about this - they're really great brakes
when functioning properly.


-Kenyon


--- "Hall, Marc F" <marc.f.hall@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I have a braking problem with my '66. 
> 
> The car's brakes were tired but ok before turning
> her over to the shop
> (SA).  Among other jobs, SA rebuilt the brakes and
> found the rear brakes
> lock up well before the front brakes engage fully. 
> Lines have been
> flushed and seem fine.  Front brake drums and shoes
> match ok, some
> re-arching of the shoes did not solve the problem. 
> Front shoes are of a
> different mfg than the rear, is this a friction
> coefficient issus??  SA
> indicates that they are getting to the end of their
> expertise on the
> cause of the brake differential.  SA is pretty good
> at general repairs
> and Chryslers are not too mysterious for them.  I
> have done the brakes
> myself at least twice without screwing it up, so the
> pro's have hit a
> hitch in their getalong? 
> 
> Help.... Has any of you run into this problem
> before?? 
> 
> The shop (SA) is owned by a pal who has done great
> work on my cars
> before, so no funny biz going on. 
> 
> Regards & thanks,
> 
> Marc in Mukilteo
> 
> 
> Regional Director
> Customer Support Program Management
> Boeing Commercial Aircraft Services
> 206-409-4853  Primary phone
> 
> 
> 
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Kenyon Wills
 
 






















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