Re: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS
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Re: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS
- From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:14:14 +0100
Both techniques should work !
But I think that the rope technique is a little safer to carry out.
Imagine what happens if your air compressor hose suddenly get
loose...
I believe quite a bunch of people on this list have used both tricks with
good results, so it is just your personal preference which one to use.
As mentioned above, with the rope technique you don't have to worry about a
sudden airpressure drop down!
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Burton Bouwkamp" <northburt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS
Dan,
There are at least two techniques for replacing the valve seals without
removing the heads. One is with air pressure (through the spark plug hole)
to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the seals. Another is
to insert 6 to 7 feet of nylon rope through the spark plug hole and
compress it above the piston to hold the valves closed while
removing/installing the seals.
I need to replace the valve seals on my 1968 Dodge Charger (383 "B"
engine) but I haven't had the nerve to try either technique. Have any of
the Imperial Club members had success with these techniques - or any other
tricks that I don't know about.?
Burt Bouwkamp
----- Original Message -----
From: <therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "IML" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: IML: Oil usage theories
Hello everyone (& Dave):
I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial engine. Not much of a
surprise with 150K+, and sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70
mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph around town. I know the
correct answer is to do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for that
right now, as there are too many other priorities for my next $3000.
Compression check months ago was OK, no blue smoke at cold start up (even
if sitting for days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or after idle -
just no blue smoke at all. Idles and drives quite well, gets about 11
mpg. Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles, and they were nicely
tanned/greyed, clean everywhere except wet oil on the threads.
Dave had mentioned earlier that big block Mopars have a tendency to need
valve seals. If that is what's indicated by the above evidence, I could
probably find the resources to pull the heads.
Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most welcomed.
Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom
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