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Thanks for sharing this Richard!,
Your father is absolutely right, you need to adjust
the cam adjusters (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) frequently to get a good
working braking system.
I have adjusted the way you father described it,
and I must say I have a firm pedal that travel only halfway to the
floor!
Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon and
Charles can jump in on this and tell us how much pedal travel they
have?
And since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what
is the correct reading for the temperature of our cars?
Since the weather is almost freezing cold here, my
car doesn't reach normal operating temperature. It just passed the Cold mark on
the dial and thats about it. Since it is a Californian car I thought the former
owner might have installed another termostat that opens earlier, so I checked it
and I was right!
The previous owner installed a 160 degrees
thermostat!, I guess to prevent the car from overheating in hot Californian
summers.
I now have installed a 180 degrees thermostat (OEM
standard temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes higher then ever before!
It now stays exactly in the middle of the dial.
Is this correct?
I have never seen the needle climbed that high
before, so I am a little worried allthough common sense tells me that the middle
of the dial sounds quite good...
Just curious to know the readings on other 1960
owners temperature gauges!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:47
PM
Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake
bleeding
Hi Folks,
After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60 Crown they
are finally working properly. I think we bled them entirely three times
before getting everything repaired properly. The shop that "restored" my
chasis did not double flare the brake lines correctly and had overtightened
the flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion and leaks. We ended
up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks as well, at the front frame
and on top of the axle. The IML web site was helpful but did not really
address the issue of pedal going to the floor. See below. Another
tip, we elevated our brake bleeding bottle on a small step ladder, that really
helped keeep the air from returning to the cylinders during the bleeding
process. After all of this my father had this to say:
For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake Bleeding".
The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be perfectly bled
and the pedal still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted to
require minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom
line is that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder
will be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel cylinders
have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight against the
drums. Chrysler knew this,
as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal goes to Floor" you (a) check fluid
in master cylinder and (b) adjust for worn linings. The
obvious implication is that it does not take much slack at the brake shoes to
allow the pedal to go to the floor. With the shoes properly adjusted
tight against the drum and just loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn
freely you still will not have a firm pedal until you almost reach the
floor. That's just the way it is. If you want to see this then
tighten all the shoes against the drums and then see how much pedal
you have. You cannot see this by pumping the pedal as the strong shoe
return springs will push the fluid back out of the wheel cylinders faster
than you can stroke the master cylinder. Adjust the shoes properly and
frequently and you can get good braking.
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
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