Re: IML: '64 LeBaron restoration

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- Christopher Carter <rexcarter@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I have decided to have major mechanical restoration
> work done to my '64,
> engine rebuild, transmission, rear end, a/c,
> suspension and steering.

A serious undertaking.  Everyone here supports you.  

Be prepared to learn more and advise your technician. 
It should be your job to know as much as possible
about the car and where resources are to be found. 
Learning how the club webiste's resources are laid out
might save you serious "research" charges, as good
restoration places don't just do the work, they must
educate themselves first.  If I were trusting my car
to someone else, I'd print out the 1963, 1964, & 1965
libraries of MTSC books, bind them, and hand them over
along with a copy of the Service Manual for 1964.  Go
through all of the titles one by one verbally with the
guy or he'll ignore them.  Show him where they are
online for when he loses your prints, and check in
regularly. 

If the place does not have a penchant for MOPAR, RUN
SCREAMING FROM THE BUILDING AND DO NOT LOOK BACK.  You
have been warned.



Suggest that you leave the rear end untouched
internally - they just don't wear out.  New lubricant
and wire wheel/paint the exterior and you're good to
go unless there's a problem there.  Even then, I'd
replace with used rather than rebuild, but that's me,
since there are plenty around.  


Suggest that you break things down into phases where
you do related tasks so that you have mileposts where
you can rest financially and test/sort the work that's
been done so far rather that committing to a
full-blown restoration.



Here's how I did it/am doing it on my '72:


Phase I
==========================
Goal: Mechanical soundness/dependability/drivability
--------------------------
Engine rebuid - mild boost on cam
All associated accessories rebuilt/replaced
  Alternator/Regulator
  Water/Oil Pump
  Carb
  Power Steering Pump
  Reused existing AC pump - will do that subsystem
later.

Radiator recored

Transmission/Torque convertor redone

Driveshaft (and bearing support in cars that need it. 
Be certain to tell them to MARK THE DRIVESHAFTS FOR
RE-ASSEMBLY.  They are balanced as a pair, and will
bedevil you if re-assembled incorrectly.

New Belts/Hoses/Power Steering Hoses/thermostat

Steering box, if needed.  Do while engine is OUT. 
Diagnose PRIOR to engine removal if the car is
drivable at all.  You can do this yourself.  Call me
on the phone and I can walk you through it - EASY.

They're 5 times easier to work on/remove/reinstall
without an engine cluttering up the engine
compartment.  Insist on the box being built
LOOSE/light.  Otherwise you'll get a "muscle car" redo
and it's firmer.  Ask me how I know.  Wheel should be
feather light with engine running.  Mine's not (to my
mild annoyance), but I'm too lazy to swap it out.

Paint Engine compartment when engine is out - NOW IS
YOUR CHANCE!


==================
Phase II
-----------------
Goal: Safety, ride

Brakes - MC, 4 Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, Soft lines

Front end rebuild - Bushings, ball joints, steering
linkages, shocks.

Air Conditioning

Auto Pilot (if so equipped).

===================

Phase III

Interior


===================

Phase IV

Goal: Cosmetic completion

Exterior - Chrome, bodywork, paint, glass (as needed)

Stainless trim polished, chrome replated as needed.

Optional now or when engine is out:
Lift car and use a grinder with a wire rope wheel to
strip the frame-rails, leaf-springs, rear-end, etc.

Spray Eastwood "Chassis Black" on framerails and all
other exposed metal components (before new shocks are
installed).  Have the parts that are done during front
end work done at that time.  You will have things like
front suspension components stripped of greasy
build-up?  Paint them.  Nothing new goes in without
being painted.  Nothing old goes back on without being
cleaned and painted?  

Re-coat everything else with new rubberized
undercoating.  

Expensive labor that you "could" do yourself to a much
higher standard if you DIY.





Leave cosmetics on the outside till last so that they
don't get fouled by other work.

I left off Tires.  Suggest that you not get nice tires
until you are done with paint and body, unless you're
dying to drive the car and the bodywork has to wait
for time or money reasons.  Nothing like overspray to
make hash out of $1000 of rubber.  Unless you get 3
wheels and your spare to take the beating during the
paint portion.



Do yourself a GIANT favor and get Bias Ply tires? 
They really do make the car ride and look super.



That was $50,000 of work if you pay someone else to do
it all, I bet.  $25k if you get a really good deal and
cut some corners.  Let us know what your potential
restorer is asking/quoting?

No restoration shop worth their pay will give you a
blanket estimate.  Expect them to charge $5000 to
dismantle and estimate.  You can go from there.

By compartmentalizing, you cut the number of variables
and won't face nearly the setbacks if taken in
successive chunks.  





 

Kenyon Wills
 
 






















       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/

-----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please 
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be 
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm