Re: IML: Mopar Action Magazine A-Arm Tech Tip, Adjusters, and Tire Stuff

["Rob van der Es" <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I will take cary, don't worry Paul!

I will check first with a torque wrench how much torque is needed, if it 
needs more then allowed by Chrysler I will stop and look for new bolts and 
swivels!
Ofcourse I won't strip a swivel or bolt and leave my car inoperative for 
weeks on the street..

I guess the car will fell on the ground with its front bumper when a bolt 
breaks or gets stripped?

Robert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Mopar Action Magazine A-Arm Tech Tip, Adjusters, and Tire 
Stuff


Be careful with the leveing bar. That also makes it easier to strip the
threads.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Eric <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 5:27 pm
Subject: IML: Mopar Action Magazine A-Arm Tech Tip, Adjusters, and Tire
Stuff


Rob, A few notes about your low rider topic.
_____________________________________________________
It are radials and the dimensions are 235/70 R15.
I don't know how this compares to the original tyres that were used in
the
sixties?
************************
If you have 70 series tires, they would be a little shorter than a 75
series tire, 5% infact.
The formula is 70% of tire width so your tires are 70% of 235mm in
profile thickness. I haven't kept up on the replies but 75% of 235mm on
a 235/75/15 tire would be about 8.75mm taller than a 235/70/15 tire.
Tires from the 60's were pretty tall, and really narrow by comparison.

____________________________________________________________
Are those adjusters easy to turn normally? In my FSM is stated that if
more
then 200 foot pounds of torque is reguired to turn them then the bolts
and
anchors should be replaced..
************************
No, they aren't easy unless you have a long levering bar, or cheater
bar as they are called here. I used a big thick PVC pipe on the end of
my big crescent wrench and it worked fine. The info on this list is
extremely helpful, kudos go out to our fellow Imperial list members
with their excellent replies. One important note is to adjust the
adjuster with the tire off the ground.

_____________________________________________________________
Btw, can you give me the name and issue number of that Mopar magazine
you
just read with regard to this subject.
*************************
I just saw the magazine at the store and bought it. It is this month's
Mopar Action magazine, August 2007. Page 91 shows the 'Tech Tip' for
their story regarding a '72 Plymouth Road Runner lower A-arm bushing
procedure. I'm not sure that the A-arm torsion bar opening is the same
size between all body series across the Mopar line, but I have an idea
they are. With that caveat, the article goes on to say that you drop a
couple of flat washers of 1.25 (1-1/4) inch outside diameter size into
the sleeve and it appears he means at the end with the lip on it..
Chisel through the lip of the sleeve in 4 or 5 spots and bend back the
sleeve lip segments so as to capture the washers you just dropped in.
Then take the assembly to a press or vise of your choosing, the author
used a long 1/2'' drive rachet extention and pressed, or hammered, the
bushing out. Thus, the washers give the bushing a surface to press
against whereas the bushing sleeve doesn't provide much of a surface to
get a grip on.

Eric
1964 Crown Coupe


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