Re: IML: The half-lit dome light
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Re: IML: The half-lit dome light



Yes David,

it is approx. 6 Volts...


Robert

Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 6:27 pm, schreef Dave Wilker:
> Rob
>
>
> Have you used a volt meter to see what sort of voltage levels are on the
> contacts and at light socket?
>
>
>
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:21 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light
>
>
>
>> Hello again Joe,
>>
>>
>> I haven't found the problem yet. Bad weather and lots of rain made me
>> stay away from the car that is parked on my drive way outside :( Dutch
>> garages just aren't big enough for 1960 Imperials I am afraid.
>>
>> If weather permits, I will have a look this weekend. I also have to
>> replace the backup light switch then, you know the one that is mounted
>> on the pushbutton assembly.
>>
>> You are right, cutting wires is a little drastic :)
>> I only cut the wires from the rear door post switches to see what
>> happens (those wires are easy accessible when you remove the sill plates
>> on both sides). But the light still stays on.
>>
>> As you suggested, I will try to remove the tape from the wire bundle at
>>  the front passenger door to see what is wrong there. I think one of the
>> motor leads of the power window motor, or a wire at the powerlock switch
>> is at fault.
>>
>> Ofcourse I will let the group know what was wrong, as soon as I have
>> found the error!
>>
>> Robert
>>
>>
>> Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 12:05 am, schreef Joe Strickland:
>>
>>> Rob;
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Did you ever find the cause/solution for the dome light being at half
>>>  brightness?  You mentioned the possibility of cutting wires which
>>> sounded drastic.  Perhaps by removing the electrical tape or other
>>> protective wrapping around the bundle of wires going to/from the
>>> passenger door you could move or flex individual wires until you find
>>> the offending wire. Then the wire could be replaced and the bundle of
>>> wires secured together again with electrical tape or whatever was
>>> originally used.
>>>
>>> The way the dome lamp circuit works is that there is 12 volts DC
>>> always present on the pink wiring to the lamp and the yellow wire
>>> coming from the lamp receptacle is the side that gets grounded to turn
>>> the lamp on. As you mentioned before, any other item that were to short
>>> to the yellow lead such as a motor winding etc. could make the lamp
>>> turn on at reduced brightness.
>>>
>>> If you have to replace a section of wire, be sure to get the same AWG
>>>  gauge and try to find wire that has the same number and size of
>>> individual strands that make up the overall AWG gauge size.
>>>
>>> I hope you find a solution.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
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