Thanks Joe and Paul!, I certainly won't give up on this one :)I already discovered a couple of wires with brittle insulation and have replaced them. However, the right one was not amongst them and the light still shines at half power. But don't worry I still have a lot of wiring to check, now I am there I will check all wires on all doors. I don't trust this brittle insulation any longer you see!
I will keep you all updated about my progress :) Robert----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Strickland" <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Imperial Mail List" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 PM Subject: IML: 60 Dome light stays on
>However, I am still convinced that I have a complete other situation on >my >hand here! >You see, if I push the rear back door switches in by hand, my dome >light >shines on at half power or so!!?>So, I still go for Paul's theory that a 'hot" wire from the window motor >or>power lock might be causing this problem. Robert;You could be right in that if the lead into the center pillar was shorted against another lead like the window lift motor or a door lock solenoid it would effectively place two 12 volt loads in series with one another which could cause the lamp to glow at partial brightness. Since a lamp draws much less current than a motor or solenoid the voltage at the second device would not have enough current capability to activate it.One possibility I thought of was that it could be that mice got into the car and managed to chew some insulation off of some wires.Also someone might have installed some sort of accessory item in the car and tied it to the lamp lead circuit instead of the accessory post of the ignition switch or fuse box. It could be something like a radio or CD player etc. that might have been added.In the lamp circuits the pink wire is the +12 VDC feed from the battery and the yellow wire is the one that gets grounded to turn the lamp on.The only time the wires going to the electric window lifts or the door lock solenoids get power applied to them is when the device is activated by the appropriate switch. The rest of the time the wires on the load side of the switches have no voltage present on them.Someone else may also have tried to make a repair in the past and did a poor job of it. Look for spliced wires inside the door(s) as well as frayed or missing insulation. Damaged wires could even be the result of a previous accident and subsequent repairs.Don't give up! You will be pleased with your efforts when you find the cause.Joe Strickland ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for theAdministrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
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